Help with my p0335, bet you can't....
Quote from Austin DeHaas on September 15, 2019, 10:50 pmQuote from 1972Mach1 on September 12, 2019, 10:18 amWell, after ordering all the new parts this week to remount my coil to the firewall and some real RFI shielding, Fitech finally e-mailed me back and told me that their systems won't work with a Ford Duraspark system. Thanks, Fitech, after $1000 in new parts since the beginning of this fiasco I could've avoided by a phone call or returned e-mail weeks ago, I'll be good to go after an $83 eBay HEI distributor. Can't wait to get this thing bulletproofed, but the customer service of the company sucks.
Unfortunately they are overwhelmed. I have proposed a different process, but was met with push back.
Yeah, that's what I've heard for years, too. Got too big too fast was what most have said. I had read the reviews and issues with customer service online, but like most things I figured they were blown out of proportion and went ahead and got a kit anyway. Unfortunately, I'm one of the guys experiencing issues with it. While I've got you here, Austin, is there any issues you know of with running an HEI and the Fitech? Do I need to worry about RF being the coil is mounted in the distributor, or do the HEIs not seem to affect the ECU as much as a separate coil? Do I just wire the blue wire into the TACH signal on the HEI, and if so, is it ok to run my actual tachometer and the Fitech off the TACH post together?
That's precisely what I've done with my meanstreet 800. I have a Performance Distributor's Race HEI distributor in my small block chevy and shielded the blue wire going to the HEI tack output. At this same point also have my electric tack connected to the tack output. Haven't had any problems with interference with my setup.
Quote from bdhulderman on September 17, 2019, 12:52 pmThat's precisely what I've done with my meanstreet 800. I have a Performance Distributor's Race HEI distributor in my small block chevy and shielded the blue wire going to the HEI tack output. At this same point also have my electric tack connected to the tack output. Haven't had any problems with interference with my setup.
Perfect, exactly what I was looking for. Didn't figure there'd be an issue but you never know....I didn't figure there'd be an issue with my Duraspark either!
The tech support issue is not just Fitech. All are having issues. This is new uncharted territory for aftermarket fuel injection. Low end systems bring a whole new demographic of customers. Many buy the systems assuming they are Magic Boxes. Skills, such as engine tuning and proper electrical, are lacking in this customer base. Therefore creates a backlog for tech support.
Websites like mine, Facebook groups and tech videos that are in the works, will hopefully lend a hand.
As for distributor. I have successfully used a Summit RTR 2 wire distributor on Ford's. I still mounted the coil remotely. These dizzys can be run as mechanical advance or locked out for timing control. They must use an ignition box.
Just remembered something. I have heard Fitech does not recommend the Duraspark. Apparently the tach signal is not strong enough.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on September 22, 2019, 4:09 pmJust remembered something. I have heard Fitech does not recommend the Duraspark. Apparently the tach signal is not strong enough.
Exactly why I just put the HEI on it. Seems to be running good from what I can tell (starts better, runs better cold) during my couple of short road trips, other than now I have a light throttle AFR issue I posted about here: https://fitechefituning.com/fitech-efi-tuning-forum-2/topic/fcc2-and-pwm-setting/
Quote from 1972Mach1 on September 23, 2019, 12:40 pmQuote from Austin DeHaas on September 22, 2019, 4:09 pmJust remembered something. I have heard Fitech does not recommend the Duraspark. Apparently the tach signal is not strong enough.
Exactly why I just put the HEI on it. Seems to be running good from what I can tell (starts better, runs better cold) during my couple of short road trips, other than now I have a light throttle AFR issue I posted about here: https://fitechefituning.com/fitech-efi-tuning-forum-2/topic/fcc2-and-pwm-setting/
Let it learn.....
Not a learning issue in this case. If I would've held the throttle in that light throttle position, it would've idled down from 55 mph to zero mph without ever picking up. If i would've been in town at a stoplight, it would've sat at 20+ afr after it went green until I put the throttle over 1/4, then it would've taken off burning out all over when it kicked back in. It had nothing going on at light throttle, and wouldn't figure itself out no matter how long I held the throttle there. Totally dead. I think bumping the PWM to back up to 74.5 per Hyperfuel's recommendation fixed it, as it worked again last night. I'll go for a longer drive this weekend and report back.
Ok, so I wish I could tell you if my FCC2 issue is fixed, but the truck left me on the side of the road in the dark after 15 miles with (wait for it.....) a P0335 code. Swapped my carb on and drove home again. This was at 8:30 in 45 degree pitch black with the girlfriend holding the flashlight. So, for this go around I have:
Replaced the Duraspark with an HEI ignition system and matching low RFI plug wires routed in front of the heads (you know HEI, the one with no external coil and is like what probably 95% of the GM products that have a Fitech swapped on use and don't have issues with). I pointed the coil connections to the front of the engine so they were as far away from the throttle body as possible, just as an added measure. Blue wire is connected directly to the TACH output on the HEI with as short a wire as possible, also shielded (see below).
I extended out my alternator bracket to get my alternator as far away from the unit as possible. You know, because no other cars that run a Fitech have alternators in the front of the engine.
Bought some really expensive RF shield, wrapped my wires in foil tape, then put the RF shielding over that. I grounded the shielding on one side. If you don't agree with this method, I suggest you visit any website dedicated to the subject, as this is what absolutely 100% of them suggest for best results.
My battery is grounded directly to the block with a NEW cable. Block was filed clean before installation, battery terminal cleaned. The block is grounded to the frame with a NEW ground cable. Both connections were cleaned with a file. ALL Fitech and FCC2 connections go directly to the block, with clean filed connections and new cables. All grounds are as short as possible with soldered connections.
Still get a P0335, still leaves me stranded. I guarantee you, this truck is wired as good as it can be. It is done exactly how you, or Fitech themselves would wire it. So, my Fitech wizards, what shall I do next? Go to a coil on plug ignition system? Move my distributor to the rear differential of the truck? Get a witch doctor to come over and make the curse go away with bones and incense? Because if you say that there isn't anything wrong with the system and it's in my wiring or installation again, I'm going to say that the only way a Fitech will work properly when put on a car is to run it like I have in these pictures, which is how it's been installed 4 separate times now on mine. Works like a champ when I use this method.
Can we now admit mine has a problem?
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Of course it will run better with the carb. Carbs don't care about electrical interference.
Let's be clear. The blue wire is isolated from all other wires and is shielded with aluminum foil and shielding sleeve.