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Injectors aren't firing, possible ECU failure

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that's a good tip, i will try and ask for the new harness!

as I said - the second ECU isn't dead - it's working after replacing the main fuse. it was the culprit as it didn't really shorted out- just poor internal connection from low quality... it was my bad really since i only checked it visually 🙁 ... but since i took the ECU apart, i won't run it without the silicone and epoxy protecting it...

i shielded my tach wire before, and everything went fine. the first ECU diagnosis was an injector driver and that's common so i guess my car and install are fine =]

also - my main goal now is converting it to a remote ECU. my connectors and wires arrived today... so i hope in a few days i will have a prototype running the car, hopefully.

the new type ECU i got, version 2.66 (etched at the bottom) has the YELLOW wrie from the connector split into 3 - YELLOW, BROWN, RED(thin) wires. the YELLOW one wasn't feeding power since the fuse was bad. but the BROWN thick one did feed the board. since i don't have the schematics for the board I can only assume it was back feeding the ECU in some fashion that cause it to start but then reset.. and that caused the error.

regarding holley, i thought going that route too, but after joining a couple of facebook groups - i can assure you - they have the same issues if not worst. since holley is a big sponsor they tend to look better because many youtubers and the like use them and review them as great - real world users though - they have issues and sometimes the service is questionable too. so maybe try to join some facebook groups yourself and see for yourself before you make a decision.
by the way - both manufacture in china. that's why both have issues. if you step up for a holley standalone ECU for example - you pay double for just that - so that's probably good, made in USA and expensive =]

 

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Well, it is done, i have successfully remote mounted the ECU. i had to do a lot of wiring and had to figure out a lot of small stuff to make it work and make it practical - i added a connector so i could remove the throttle body easily if needed.

I used a T for the MAP sensor and a vacuum hose back to the ECU which now sits above the drinker side legs =]

here a short video of it all-

Quote from b1ackth0rne on September 9, 2021, 12:33 pm

Well, it is done, i have successfully remote mounted the ECU. i had to do a lot of wiring and had to figure out a lot of small stuff to make it work and make it practical - i added a connector so i could remove the throttle body easily if needed.

I used a T for the MAP sensor and a vacuum hose back to the ECU which now sits above the drinker side legs =]

here a short video of it all-

https://youtu.be/TDr4POi1R_0

Well you did the impossible and congrats on the task. Did you take pictures of what you did and document it? Be handy to have all the info on materials needed  and procedure of what to do . Did you use the repaired ECU or the new one Fitech sent you? You need to remount the front cover on the throttle body as I think you have extra's

well,  I do plan on creating a small how-to-guide eventually.. but most things would have to be custom, mainly wire lengths depending on the car.

other than that it's pretty straight forward. I did but a 20 pin connector (photo attached) which is weatherproof for the engine bay - that too can vary as 17 wires are needed. and.... something that might also work - is using one thicker positive for all the injectors (they have a common "rail" on the board, the negative is pulsated by the driver), also some other sensors may use the same ground, but since i'm no electrical engineer - i figured i won't experiment to that extent and just lengthened each wire.

i also wanted to make a connection on the ECU side, say in a box like this :
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002712690764.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.6baf3c00r1mKW9&mp=1

but this will require a lot more work - so I think i'll wait with that =]

i have:

  • one ECU which is faulty - injector driver issue, not fixed yet.
  • one ECU which i thought was dead, but it was a bad fuse (came with the ECU-cheaply made) that looked fine but resistance on it was super high - this ECU now works.
  • and i have a new style ECU coming when stock will be available.

if i would be able to fix the injector driver issue (say by replacing that chip alone) I would share my experience in that regard as well, but i haven't gotten to it yet.

 

I do have a spare cover, just thought that this would emphasize the achievement with it gone =]

 

if anyone has any questions regarding this project, please ask away, as the whole story will take some time before i publish it (going on vacation for a couple of weeks =] )..

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RICH has reacted to this post.
RICH

I have the 30001 TBI unit on a 302 SBF.  The unit was up and running.  I shut it down for two months waiting for a replacement radiator.  After installing the radiator and new cooling fans, the engine was restarted.  It was hard to start and ran very rough (having to pump the accelerator) and it died.  Has hot started sense.  This unit has less then 5 hours of running time.

The problem is "no prime shot" - the intake manifold is dry as a bone.  All things test OK.  Voltage on white wire, running a 1/2" phenolic spacer, replaced the fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump pressure is 45 lbs, handheld unit appears to  communicate with the ECU, tested all fuses for continuity.   I have reloaded the initial Fitech setup with no positive results. I can manually prime the engine and it will hit immediately

The instruction states - if the engine is not to be started immediately - to press the accelerator to the floor when turning the ignition switch to start and it will delete the prime shot.  My question is - if the TPS is stuck in the maximum position, would this delete the prime shot?

I am going to retest the fuses with an ohm meter for resistance.  .e.

I am waiting until after the Christmas holidays and will be calling Fitech.

This is the best article I have found on this problem.

Thanks,

Bill

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