Shielding The Blue Tach Wire
What's the best way to ground the braided shielding? Anyone have pics of grounded shielding?
I have a real good solder iron gun and I couldn't solder to the shielding, so I just used an alligator clip to clip to the shielding and ground that wire. Worked for me.
Thanks. I'm thinking I could probably tie the one end of the shielding with a small clamp and attach the ground there. Did you run the ground to the block? The battery?
Ran it to the block. I have the battery going directly to the block as well.
Just curious if it makes a difference what end of the shield is grounded? I have good access to the blue wire closest to the coil, not so much at the other end...
Thanks
mark
Thank you for the tip.
I just ordered 10' of 1/8" shielded braid from Amazon for $9.99
I know this is an old thread but maybe someone can answer a couple questions. I'm thinking that the notorious blue wire is causing my tach to read incorrectly, because I've tried everything else I can think of to get it right. Also, the engine (dodge 360) smells pretty rich. The tach RPM reads roughly 150% of what the RPM says on the handheld display, so when idling at 750 rpm the analog gauge in the dash is showing about 1100 rpm.
I'm using some Faraday shielding on the blue wire and rerouting it to see if that makes a difference, although I don't think the routing was that bad to begin with. My first question is about the part of the blue wire that is between the plug and the throttle body....are guys cutting off the stock sleeving and shielding the blue wire in this section as well, or just the last bit that runs to the distributor (HEI setup)?
Next question is about the tach wire...I have both the blue wire and the wire that goes to the tach running to the blade connector in the distributor connector. Should I hook this wire up differently? Should I shield this wire as well? Right now its in a bundle with the distributor power wire and the oil pressure sender wire. The blue wire (now shielded) is running separately with the white wire to the FITech harness plug, so separate from the other wires running to the distributor.
Gonna try and start it back up here shortly and see what happens.
Run it without the Tach Gauge connected and see if it improves. Generally speaking if you are getting noise on the blue tach wire you will see a code on the handheld. I use my handheld as a gauge on my car so why would you need more than that?