Successful?
Quote from borzoidog on January 13, 2018, 5:06 amHi Austin - If I grasp this right I can use an inline Bosch 044 or Walboro 255 with the LS filter/regular and dispense completely with all the faults and foibles with the FiTech FCC unit? Thanks!
This is becoming a common alternative. Simpler, cleaner and cheaper. I usually add return lines, when needed, to my installs. The LS filter makes this so much simpler.
I pulled my fcc apart because I was running out of fuel at high rpms.
Moved the pump and filter up so it was not mashed into the bottom of can.
Replaced the useless zip ties with real clamps so nothing moves.
All is good on that problem.....
Quote from Austin DeHaas on January 14, 2018, 3:13 pmQuote from borzoidog on January 13, 2018, 5:06 amHi Austin - If I grasp this right I can use an inline Bosch 044 or Walboro 255 with the LS filter/regular and dispense completely with all the faults and foibles with the FiTech FCC unit? Thanks!
This is becoming a common alternative. Simpler, cleaner and cheaper. I usually add return lines, when needed, to my installs. The LS filter makes this so much simpler.
Austin - I'm not familiar with this setup (and the FB link was no good). Would you elaborate or list the return filter/regulator I can take a look at? Days away from the MeanStreet purchase, but still deciding on the fuel system. Thanks.
Thanks Austin.
This would be a very easy setup, but it would appear, at least from my research, that the filters are limited to 255 LpH. With my uncorrected HP level (tuned at 5500 ft), I could make this work but it would be marginal.
With the in-tank setup I'm considering, all I would need to get is hose, fittings, and filters. Anyone have a good source?
Quote from NavyVet on February 25, 2019, 11:08 amThanks Austin.
This would be a very easy setup, but it would appear, at least from my research, that the filters are limited to 255 LpH. With my uncorrected HP level (tuned at 5500 ft), I could make this work but it would be marginal.
With the in-tank setup I'm considering, all I would need to get is hose, fittings, and filters. Anyone have a good source?
You are correct I believe. That setup has limitations, but it eliminates the need for a full return line in lower horsepower applications.
I can not tell you the best setup for your particular vehicle. Every setup will be different. Here are some guide lines. Minimum 3/8 supply and return line. Use metal line where possible. Use braided hose and AN fittings when not...
I do use some EFI rated rubber line in some case, but use at your own risk. I am not a fan of the reusable filters. They can leak and need cleaned too often. I use factory style replaceable filters. Not as pretty, but I don't display them either.
Also figure in a fuel pressure gauge. Many options available and a great tool for tuning. The simplest is the $10 Fitech gauge. Drill and tap a fuel rail plug and install. That option can limit air filter clearance.
Thanks Austin.
I've been running my FCC for about 3 years now and have been plagued with fuel issues whenever I pull a load or get in hot weather. Once coming out of Phoenix pulling a trailer up a mountain road (hot outside) I got vapor lock, presumably in the fuel line to the mechanical pump. At the time I presumed it was because my tank wasn't holding pressure, which would lower the boiling point of the fuel in the lines. But after fixing the tank pressure I was pulling my travel trailer up a mountain road and the FCC seemed to run out of fuel, and this happened other times too. I've recently learned that the FCC can get really hot and boil the fuel in its tank, that the vent line can fill with fuel to prevent venting, and cause vapor lock in the FCC. I saw a YouTube video where the vent filter and float are removed allowing the FCC tank to fill and recirculate the fuel back through the return line. I've made the modification, but haven't tried it under heavy load yet.
Question, if I'm recirculating should I and how would I change the PWM to the FCC pump?
Quote from 85Silverado on March 24, 2019, 8:08 pmI've been running my FCC for about 3 years now and have been plagued with fuel issues whenever I pull a load or get in hot weather. Once coming out of Phoenix pulling a trailer up a mountain road (hot outside) I got vapor lock, presumably in the fuel line to the mechanical pump. At the time I presumed it was because my tank wasn't holding pressure, which would lower the boiling point of the fuel in the lines. But after fixing the tank pressure I was pulling my travel trailer up a mountain road and the FCC seemed to run out of fuel, and this happened other times too. I've recently learned that the FCC can get really hot and boil the fuel in its tank, that the vent line can fill with fuel to prevent venting, and cause vapor lock in the FCC. I saw a YouTube video where the vent filter and float are removed allowing the FCC tank to fill and recirculate the fuel back through the return line. I've made the modification, but haven't tried it under heavy load yet.
Question, if I'm recirculating should I and how would I change the PWM to the FCC pump?
Changing the PWM would only increase the fuel pump speed in the FCC. Would only circulate the fuel fast from FCC to Unit and back faster. Creating more heat. You will always recommend in tank pumps. That is how the OEM does it and I'm not going to reinvent the wheel. Your truck is one of the easiest since the 87 models went to EFI. Get the 87 pickup assembly and install high pressure EFI pump. Replace any rubber line to EFI hose and clamps. If you have dual tanks, do replace both pickups and the switching valve. Also the 87 dash switch is a little different. I have done an 86 this way and it switches seamlessly. No more vapor issues....
Quote from Austin DeHaas on March 24, 2019, 8:54 pm...If you have dual tanks, do replace both pickups and the switching valve. Also the 87 dash switch is a little different. I have done an 86 this way and it switches seamlessly. No more vapor issues....
It sounds great, but pulling the tanks is a pain and not looking forward to that. LOL. I replaced my switching valve a few years ago, does it need to match the '87 dash switch? Any rewiring?
Any insight using the FCC recirculating? I've seen where some guys are removing the vent filter and float, then connecting the vent line to the tank return line.