FiTech EFI Tuning Forum

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timing controlled distributor install question.

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Easy one to check would be the possible electrical issues.  Select the RPM and voltage on large gauges display and crank it.  RPMs should read something and voltage should be above, I just read somewhere new, 9v.  If no RPM value, then you may have wired to ACC instead of IGN.   As for PWN, mine does not have an on/off setting, so I just set it to 100%.  BTW, what system are you setting up?  I have the 30001, 600HP GoEFI.  Please let us know if you find the issue as it helps others.


Verified before I have cranking rpm.

I'm setting up the 30002 go efi 600hp as well. I'll adjust the PWM and verify fuell pressures first...when I'm done with work that is.

I've watched what feels like 1000 videos on setting these up. Another are years old though, and everyone seems to do it different. I wanted timing control, but this is becoming a PITA!


Here is a thread I started a couple of years ago:  Using Vacuum Advance With FiTech Controlled Timing - Using Vacuum Advance With FiTech Controlled Timing - Electronic fuel injection tuning for automotive applications. ( I have made a few changes since I wrote that, but still using both together.

I love how it assists with idle control and the way I use both FiTech Controlled Timing AND the vacuum advance my timing is adjusted to meet the actual loads on the engine.   I basically use the FiTech Timing Control to act as my mechanical advance, with the advantage being that that I can change springs (rate) and bushings (total) using the handheld.  Using just FiTech Controlled Timing without vacuum advance limits you to a 2x3 input table so the ECU has a lot of filling in to do.  If you stay with the Timing control, I can let you know how to modify the handheld .ini files to at least get a 3x3 table..50% more inputs!

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Thanks for all the assistance! Looks like low voltage was the culprit!

Now that its running, whats the correct procedure for setting the base timing. (im at 6 with the handheld at 10)

Do I "lock" the timing and set that at 10 as well then turn the distributor? currently it looks like its trying to compensate for the timing as its bouncing on my balancer a  bit and I can see the actual timing in the handheld changing around 20.

Then its onto the IAC steps - which are high - even AFTER running the screw out until the blades touched.


Thanks again!

SWEET!!  Always nice when working with a running engine!

As for setting base timing, let's go with 10*.  Set 10* in the Dist Base Timing setting.  The jumping around you're seeing with the timing light is the ECU using timing control to control idle, a very nice feature.  To get around this, have someone hold the RPMs steady at 2,000 RPMs.  On the handheld, I like to go to "Large Gauges" and select RPM and Spark...with engine running at 2,000 RPMs, the timing showing on the crank needs to match the timing showing on the handheld.  Rotate the distributor till it does.  Tighten the hold down bolt and then recheck that the timing shown on the handheld still matches what you're seeing at the crank at 2,000 RPMs.  Next, you'll need to bring the RPMs up to 4,000.  If the timing numbers do not match here, adjust the "VR Drift at 4000" until they do.  That can be done with the engine running...make a change on the handheld then check timing...repeat till they match.  That's the initial setup, then it's a matter of deciding what values you want in the tables.  Good luck!


Wow, this is very informative!

I perfectly understand this procedure, however, I was wondering where the distributor lock feature comes into play. I see a few videos that are locking that number (which is not base timing), then adjusting to that. Is that different than the steps you outlined above?


You use the locked "feature" when you want to mess up your timing so badly you're ready to have your car towed to the junk yard.  🙂

Seriously, I tried to follow something a LONG time ago that used locked timing and it was not helpful.  With locked timing you should be able to set a timing input on your handheld and see it on the crank. That will show your system is set up correctly.   The procedure I described above is what works for me, BUT, that sure doesn't mean other methods are not good.  That's why there are get a lot of sharing...some will work for you, some won't.  Have you set the adjustable rotor yet to account for phasing?

Did you read the very long thread on using both vacuum advance and FiTech timing?   That's how mine is set up...and I doubt you'll find many others that are using both.  The log post explains why, short version, FiTech provides a 2x3 table for spark unless you know how to modify your .inf files, then you get a whopping 3x3 table.  Look at any OEM, or even the Sniper timing tables, they are huge compared to FiTech.  The 2x3 table is supposed to account for all the MAP/RPM combinations your engine will see...can't be done.  Anyway, glad your engine is running, and you may start playing with the tuning side.

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