700r4 and Fi tech tv cable
I use the Fast bracket with the TV corrector and have had no difficulties. Just sent a '68 Chevelle out that worked perfectly. I do like the idea of having a gauge for the line pressure. Great idea! Thanks
Quote from Jeff Ford on April 6, 2019, 4:00 pmI use the Fast bracket with the TV corrector and have had no difficulties. Just sent a '68 Chevelle out that worked perfectly. I do like the idea of having a gauge for the line pressure. Great idea! Thanks
Jeff,
I get all sorts of mixed advice. I want to buy the new EFI 550 Classic and I want to run my 700R4. Monster Transmission recommends against it because they say you can't adjust the TV cable correctly. They want me to use their 4L60E with their transmission control at a whopping $3500. The 700R4 is about $2500 (the difference pays for the EFI!)
What FAST Bracket and which TV Corrector did you use exactly and how did you verify the TV system was working correctly? I find this one from Summit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fst-304147
Thank you very much in advance.
Marty
Mesa, AZ
Hi all. I used the typical Holley-style 700R4 tv linkage bracket and found my trans was shifting too quickly. I measured the original TPI and it came out to about 1.35" of total travel. I also found a spec for the linkage from a trans shop (TCI/ATI or similar), and according to their drawing, it was also about 1.35" total travel. However, the Holley correction bracket on the FiTech was about 1.6" of travel, so the initial valve pull was too light (probably because the FiTech linkage opens more degrees than a Holley carb). I measured on my bracket and found the spot to give about 1.35" of travel then drilled and welded the stud to that location (no room behind the bracket for the nut because of the throttle linkage). Pic attached. Shifts much better now. (Yes, the pressure gauge is probably a better route, but this works for me.)
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Quote from javelin_72 on January 1, 2020, 8:23 pmHi all. I used the typical Holley-style 700R4 tv linkage bracket and found my trans was shifting too quickly. I measured the original TPI and it came out to about 1.35" of total travel. I also found a spec for the linkage from a trans shop (TCI/ATI or similar), and according to their drawing, it was also about 1.35" total travel. However, the Holley correction bracket on the FiTech was about 1.6" of travel, so the initial valve pull was too light (probably because the FiTech linkage opens more degrees than a Holley carb). I measured on my bracket and found the spot to give about 1.35" of travel then drilled and welded the stud to that location (no room behind the bracket for the nut because of the throttle linkage). Pic attached. Shifts much better now. (Yes, the pressure gauge is probably a better route, but this works for me.)
Thanks for sharing that information. I will keep it squirreled away for when I am ready!
Marty
Mesa, AZ
Quote from javelin_72 on January 1, 2020, 8:23 pmHi all. I used the typical Holley-style 700R4 tv linkage bracket and found my trans was shifting too quickly. I measured the original TPI and it came out to about 1.35" of total travel. I also found a spec for the linkage from a trans shop (TCI/ATI or similar), and according to their drawing, it was also about 1.35" total travel. However, the Holley correction bracket on the FiTech was about 1.6" of travel, so the initial valve pull was too light (probably because the FiTech linkage opens more degrees than a Holley carb). I measured on my bracket and found the spot to give about 1.35" of travel then drilled and welded the stud to that location (no room behind the bracket for the nut because of the throttle linkage). Pic attached. Shifts much better now. (Yes, the pressure gauge is probably a better route, but this works for me.)
Thank you for that info. I have never been happy with my 700r4 adjustment on mine. Ended up putting to cable stops on to get my pressures to stay some what correct.
Ultimately, I bought the FAST bracket kit from Summit. Loaded with the travel info that Javelin_72 posted, I have something to check. But like many, I have a pile of parts and life gets in the way. Looking forward to jumping back on the project soon.
Hope others who were successful also chime in.
My 700R4 was built by Hughes Transmission in Phoenix. I'm fortunate to live 30 minutes away from these guys. They know their stuff. They ask all the right questions and provided you give them the right answers, the transmission will be built for the application. Sure glad I paid the extra money with them.
Marty
This info is great. I am thinking of working with my Transmission builder to make a Fitech bracket that is correct. I had know idea the others were not Right.
Btw, anyone looking for a great Transmission builder email me. I have a guy that I have used for over 20 years. He was building me neck snapping 700r4s long before the aftermarket had caught up. I still have 3 of his transmissions that are over 20 years old. He is located in Lexington, OK. I have sent many to him and everyone has been very satisfied and surprised by his reasonable prices.
Also have a converter builder here in North Texas. He builds all my friends converters around here. Builds them from stock to the high end ones you see on Street Outlaws. Btw, builds for some of those cars too.....
I found it interesting that the Sonnax kit is built to have the end of the cable stop setup with a spring between the cable retainer and the stud mount for your standard aftermarket TV cable setup. Seems this would give an extra measure of "give" at the end of the travel to ensure that the throttle linkage has the necessary travel, but can allow for a hair more than the standard 1.35" of travel at the TV cable since the stud could technically collapse the spring w/o the TV cable moving any further? I am looking to duplicate this concept on the Holley adapter I just purchased. I will update my findings after it arrives and I have time to install it.
Quote from mlrtyme on May 26, 2020, 11:03 pmI found it interesting that the Sonnax kit is built to have the end of the cable stop setup with a spring between the cable retainer and the stud mount for your standard aftermarket TV cable setup. Seems this would give an extra measure of "give" at the end of the travel to ensure that the throttle linkage has the necessary travel, but can allow for a hair more than the standard 1.35" of travel at the TV cable since the stud could technically collapse the spring w/o the TV cable moving any further? I am looking to duplicate this concept on the Holley adapter I just purchased. I will update my findings after it arrives and I have time to install it.
I look forward to hearing how you make out.
Marty
700r4 and 200r4 pose a few issued with the Fitech. Fitech's have a 1:1 throttle linkage, where both the front and rear blades open at the same time. This allows the engine to built torque and power earlier in the throttle rotation than the q-jet carb that most 700r4's were designed for. The tv cable sees smaller movements while the engine makes more power, leads to odd shift issues and if cable is tightened to improve, cable travel limits throttle movements . We have found the Sonnax AS1-10K TV cable corrector spring to greatly help in this situation!