AFR's not being controlled
OK, still dealing with the rich issue. Not being caused by the O2 sensor, exhaust is gas tight, none of the usual issues. My wires arent next to each other, and I've even shielded the important ones and have grounded the shielding on one end. Here's what I'm seeing, though: The AFR being asked for by the ECU is pretty close to the actual AFR at idle. But as I open the throttle, the demanded AFR is at the lowest 13.6. As soon as I get on the gas, the AFR plummets to 1o. The more throttle I give, the lower it goes until it starts backfiring or almost dies. Once I let off the throttle, it goes back up to the set AFR. The TPS is reading correctly. Any suggestions? The spark advance says it's moving as it should, just the fuel seems to dump way too much. I'm at my wit's end with this, that makes no sense.
Since no one has helped out, I'll update with a new question. After messing with everything for a while, I've been able to get the AFR's within about .8-1 between the requested and the actual. In looking at the logs, though, I have a question about the parameter named "fuel loop" I was expecting that to be whether or not the system was in open or closed loop, so expecting a 0 or 1. Instead I have a bunch of numbers ranging from 8 to -10. What is this cell measuring? In my version of the procal, it's column Y.
Anyone know what that's measuring?
have no clue but definitely following, my system is doing the same thing, any time I give it throttle my AFR readings drop between 9-10. as soon as you ease up my AFR jumps up to almost 20, i can get it with in my target range but it never stays.
Issue finally figured out. Somehow (still a mystery as to how) my timing became way too advanced. I was setting my IAC steps and idle RPM based on the timing that was too advanced. It was very difficult to dial in the IAC, and it would be off after a day or two of driving. Once I rotated the distributor to bring the timing back to about 10 degrees for the base, everything dropped into place. The IAC was between 5 and 12, the fuel values trimmed leaner, and everything ran better. I was able to get some decent mileage (15 mpg in stop and go traffic). So, to anyone with similar issues, all I can say is try dialing back the timing and see if it helps. I don't think the phaseable rotor is that big a deal for someone who's not interested in getting every bit of HP out of the engine...I rarely am above 2000 rpms, so I don't think that extra 10 degrees of advance will be needed. I'm running about 8 for base, and the max with the timing light is about 20...and that's without the adjustable rotor.
Try less base timing and advance. I found that if you have too much timing, it tends to throw everything off. Set the timing so the idle is where you want it, then try to ajust the IAC steps. If it's too hard to get the IAC steps to stay steady, take a few more degrees out of the base. Once the IAC is between 1-10, reset your fuel learning and drive for a bit..see if it leans out a bit. That's what finally did it for me. Any backfiring, drop the timing some more...even the little pops. I think I way overestimated the amount of advance I needed.