FiTech EFI Tuning Forum

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Fires then shuts off

I just installed the 30003 on my SBC.  I am running that combined with edlebrock's sump pump.  My engine fires on the initial shot from the unit, but won't stay running and cuts off.  It would seem that it is not getting fuel.  I have researched this and find that most have the white wire in the wrong place.  I have it wired to the former electric choke and it gets power both in ignition and cranking.  I am at a loss of what to do.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

I got the same problem, did ewerything. If the car was sitting for a while it fired up and dies. I could do this as many times I wanted. Turned off ignition and waited, ign on again, prime shot and fires right up and dies.  If I added a battery charger it fired and kept running. Tryed new battery, same problem.  This is a Ford Mustang and I got the battery feed  to Fitech hooked up to the starter relay about 10 inches from battery positive.  Then i moved the wire right to the battery posetive post and problem solved. I could not measure any volt difference  at the battery post and starter relay so it took a long time before I mowed the wire. Regret I did not before.  My experience is that the Fiteck need a lot off  voltage.

 

Voltage drop definitely causes problems. However, after following the threads on here about the problems others have, I believe electrical noise is also a problem, if you don't earth and power directly to the battery the unit must be getting interference from other components. People using a common earth stud on the chassis seem to always have trouble. A DC battery is as good a noise filter as anything. I had the same cut out problem, I used a relay with power directly from the battery and used the choke wire to switch it.

I agree with connecting the positive directly to the battery. The ignition signal can go to any ignition source since this is low amps. In my Mustang the choke is connected directly to the ignition wire w/o resistor but I don't know if that's the way with every other Mustang. If connected to a wire with resistor then the resistor is bypassed during cranking but then it goes back to lower voltage once the engine starts. Maybe that's the issue.

I suggest starting a log just before you crank the engine and checking it. In this way you can check if it is missing fuel or is it turning off?

1971 Mach 1 Mustang w/Ram Air, 408-4V stroked Cleveland, Hooker headers, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump

I agree with starting the log before you crank also, because you can check what voltage your fitech is getting while cranking and after.