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Fires up then dies

#1 · October 25, 2018, 11:30 am

I installed a 3001 goefi 400 on a 351 windsor with a street cam (a 2-3) with Trick Flow heads. Not radical but a good hot street engine. It fires off immediately and dies. From the you tube vids I watched, I would guess it is in the settings for "afterstart" or "crank fuel" This happens at most temp ranges but mostly cold (60-70 deg. ) I can open the throttle blades slightly for about 10 seconds, and it runs fines and I can release the throttle and idles good, runs and drives good. I have played with the "Fuel Mult.", Seems to be good around 200, Tried reducing "afterstart and crank fuel" to negative number settings. No luck. New to EFI and not sure how to diagnose and the logic on how to solve problem. Does opening the throttle indicate it is lean or rich on afterstart?

UPDATE: Problem Solved! I made a simple mistake. The white wire was dropping voltage during the start cycle. I wired it wrong.

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#2 · October 25, 2018, 1:26 pm

When I read your post title, I already knew what to tell you. You beat me to it. Good job. You will be an expert quickly...

Bryan has reacted to this post.

#3 · February 12, 2019, 7:10 am

Ggreeting from Europe

I have installed Go EFI 30003 last year and sadly I haven’t been able to drive my Camaro even 10 miles.

I have a ’73 Camaro with 350 engine with the Edelbrockrock 2098 power package.

Hope someone can help me diagnose/propose some solutions to the following problem:

The engine has an erratic idle if it fires at all. I CAN ONLY START THE ENGINE IF IT IS COLD.

When it is hot, it does not start. It just burns the prime shot and then dies.

So far I have:

- changed the fuel pump. I now have the Walbro 250LPH inline pump.

- I’ve also changed the fuel pressure regulator.

- All the wires are EM shielded. White wire (key12V) is connected directly to the battery using a relay.

- I’ve also bought a second-hand controller, no difference...

- I’ve noticed that the controller doesn’t pick up tachometer signal when the engine revs on the prime shot. So I change distributor to the new MSD HEI unit but I still have the same problem.

- On some forums, I’ve read that it might be bad ECU?

Car meeting season is coming quickly and I have no clue how to fix my car.

Here is the link to a video on the erratic idle and 0 reading on tach signal:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bPCF4R4HxDz3KXkg8

Thanks

Uros

#4 · February 12, 2019, 7:34 am

Welcome from Tucson, and nice car! Just a couple things I can throw out there, since I've got a couple of fitech units on vehicles. I have an HEI distributor on both of them and I believe it's the blue wire I had to connect to the tach output in the distributor cap. The most common thing that causes no tach signal is:

1) Wire isn't connected well

2) Wire isn't shielded

3) Throttle body isn't physically grounded with dedicated ground stap/wire

It looks like in your videos, the first video shows the tach working. What's changed since that video was taken?

I would double check with volt meter that you are actually getting voltage on the white wire when you are turning the engine over.

Red wire has to be positive voltage all the time.

If it runs when it's cold, but not hot it could be too rich at idle AFR setting. Have you checked the plugs to see what color they are, and if they are fouled?

Hope something in here works for you,

Good luck!

#5 · February 12, 2019, 9:16 am

I'm leaning towards the White wire loosing voltage during crank. Turning the unit off briefly. Engine fires off Prime fuel, but injectors aren't firing to keep running. Sometimes it will catch itself when you quit cranking and stay running. Sometimes it doesn't. This would explain tach signal but no RPM on handheld.

Fyi, if it runs sometimes, I wouldn't think it was the ecu.

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Fires up then dies