FITECH GO EFI 30003 NO START
Quote from Keith Raffel on February 15, 2020, 6:26 pmEFI has been working great for several months, the 351 Windsor run better than ever, instant throttle response, engine pulls great from low rpm, consistent starts, smooth idle, etc.
A couple of days ago, it would not start, opened hood, didn’t see anything wrong except command center pressure gauge read zero. Cranked it again and it started, it ran fine while i drove home.
Yesterday it would not start, tried again today, no start.
- Cranking RPM : 168 (displayed 59040 initially, is that an error code?)
- Cranking vacuum: 0.6
- Tried to start with open and closed throttle
- Command center reservoir pressure gauge returns to zero quickly.
- Used to retain high pressure for several minutes
- Today it dropped to zero quickly, on another test it retained pressure?
- Checked with remote starter to see if fuel pumps are working.
- Removed low pressure fuel line (from fuel tanks) from the outlet side of the clear fuel filter – clear
- Low pressure electric fuel pump working and engine driven fuel pump are working.
- Removed high pressure fuel line from the outlet side of the high-pressure fuel filter – clear,
- High pressure fuel pump is working, 58 psi.
- Looked down the venturi of the throttle body, but could not see fuel while manually working the throttle.
- Did notice that the linkage needs to be adjusted for full throttle travel.
- Checked fault codes – all zero
- Displayed the log file dashboard1.csv but driving data was not saved.
- Logging on was selected when system started to operate properly several months ago.
- Do I need save the log file after each engine shut down?
Please let me know if you know what is causing this issue. Are there any other tests I can run to find out what is causing the no start condition?
Keith Raffel - 1968 Bronco, Ol Buc
EFI has been working great for several months, the 351 Windsor run better than ever, instant throttle response, engine pulls great from low rpm, consistent starts, smooth idle, etc.
A couple of days ago, it would not start, opened hood, didn’t see anything wrong except command center pressure gauge read zero. Cranked it again and it started, it ran fine while i drove home.
Yesterday it would not start, tried again today, no start.
- Cranking RPM : 168 (displayed 59040 initially, is that an error code?)
- Cranking vacuum: 0.6
- Tried to start with open and closed throttle
- Command center reservoir pressure gauge returns to zero quickly.
- Used to retain high pressure for several minutes
- Today it dropped to zero quickly, on another test it retained pressure?
- Checked with remote starter to see if fuel pumps are working.
- Removed low pressure fuel line (from fuel tanks) from the outlet side of the clear fuel filter – clear
- Low pressure electric fuel pump working and engine driven fuel pump are working.
- Removed high pressure fuel line from the outlet side of the high-pressure fuel filter – clear,
- High pressure fuel pump is working, 58 psi.
- Looked down the venturi of the throttle body, but could not see fuel while manually working the throttle.
- Did notice that the linkage needs to be adjusted for full throttle travel.
- Checked fault codes – all zero
- Displayed the log file dashboard1.csv but driving data was not saved.
- Logging on was selected when system started to operate properly several months ago.
- Do I need save the log file after each engine shut down?
- Removed low pressure fuel line (from fuel tanks) from the outlet side of the clear fuel filter – clear
- Used to retain high pressure for several minutes
Please let me know if you know what is causing this issue. Are there any other tests I can run to find out what is causing the no start condition?
Keith Raffel - 1968 Bronco, Ol Buc
Quote from morph on March 26, 2020, 2:43 pmGot similar problem.Ran great for three months then no start. The battery voltage goes to 4.6 6,7 , pump cycles five times then stops battery at 12.6 then no start ,no fuel batt.at 4.6 when engine cranks.Seperate battery to white and red wire no go. tb grounded to batt,and frame. Had codes on all four injectors. May start and run fine every once in a while then no start. Fitech said internal problem send it back. Something in p;ump relay ckt shorting ecu to ground hence no fuel. Look at battery voltage and pump cycling multiple times when trying to start.Getting rma now .
Got similar problem.Ran great for three months then no start. The battery voltage goes to 4.6 6,7 , pump cycles five times then stops battery at 12.6 then no start ,no fuel batt.at 4.6 when engine cranks.Seperate battery to white and red wire no go. tb grounded to batt,and frame. Had codes on all four injectors. May start and run fine every once in a while then no start. Fitech said internal problem send it back. Something in p;ump relay ckt shorting ecu to ground hence no fuel. Look at battery voltage and pump cycling multiple times when trying to start.Getting rma now .
Quote from Keith Raffel on March 22, 2021, 7:11 pmIf our Bronco (400 HP 30003) wasn't driven for several days it would not start. Responding to a Fitech blog idea I installed a relay in the white wire circuit from the ignition to the throttle body CPU. The white wire was used as a trigger and 12 volts (battery) from the relay to the throttle body CPU. The hand held read mid 12 volts during engine cranking. The engine would not cold start with both batteries reading 12.3 to 12.8 volts until I charged both batteries from 14.3 to 14.7.
Thanks to a tip from Victor Stevens Facebook Fitech blog a voltage converter (aka buck booster) was installed and the engine has started each time after several days of non use. I installed a digital voltage gauge in the engine bay, the converter does put out 13.8 volts.
The voltage converter I used is the DC-8V-40V to 13.8V available on Amazon and other sources. This model regulates voltage from as low as 8 volts up to 40 volts input and puts out 13.8 volts. From what I have been told, Fitech EFI needs at least 11 volts to start. This voltage converter should allow engine starts even if our starter batteries fall below 11 volts.
If our Bronco (400 HP 30003) wasn't driven for several days it would not start. Responding to a Fitech blog idea I installed a relay in the white wire circuit from the ignition to the throttle body CPU. The white wire was used as a trigger and 12 volts (battery) from the relay to the throttle body CPU. The hand held read mid 12 volts during engine cranking. The engine would not cold start with both batteries reading 12.3 to 12.8 volts until I charged both batteries from 14.3 to 14.7.
Thanks to a tip from Victor Stevens Facebook Fitech blog a voltage converter (aka buck booster) was installed and the engine has started each time after several days of non use. I installed a digital voltage gauge in the engine bay, the converter does put out 13.8 volts.
The voltage converter I used is the DC-8V-40V to 13.8V available on Amazon and other sources. This model regulates voltage from as low as 8 volts up to 40 volts input and puts out 13.8 volts. From what I have been told, Fitech EFI needs at least 11 volts to start. This voltage converter should allow engine starts even if our starter batteries fall below 11 volts.