Won't Stay Running
Hi
I hope that someone here can help solve what I have going on. I have a Go EFI-Power Adder 600hp system. Believe it is #30004. I am running a fuel module. It's on a 350 chevy Blueprint longblock, vortec heads with roller cam. 389hp, 400ft lb torque. Edlbrock Performer dual plane manifold. Summit 2 wire dist., MSD Street Fire CDI box, and MSD Blaster coil. I am using spark control, and have cam setting on #2.
So here is my problem. Engine will start and idle, throttles up, ive had it above 170 a couple times. now all of the sudden it will be running or I'll be trying to start it and the RPM reading on the handheld will go blank. all the numbers go blank for a second and the then they all come back but the RPM reads anywhere from 58000 to 59088. And at that point the engine either dies or if I can make it run with a lot of throttle it misses badly. Fuel pressure is 50+ and other readings on handheld are normal. I called FiTech and they said that it could be CDI box or some kind of enterference. They had me ground the blue wire from the harness and check my wiring. So I grounded the blue wire, and checked my wiring. Doing that made no difference.
So next I took the CDI box out. Doing that also made no difference. I'm not really sure what to try next. I've thought about not using the timing control but that is one of the reasons I went with the FiTech.
So I have all this in a '72 Datsun 240Z with a 4L60E trans and TCI stand alone controller. I am using tach and tps signal for trans controller. using a harness from caspers for tps signal.
Any and all help will be greatly appreciated. Thank You in advance. MrB
I had my controller go blank until I put an external ground wire to the fitech unit directly. Then it stopped. For weird tach interference, I had to shield the tach wire so it was isolated.
Add ground from unit to battery. Run resistor plugs and shielded plug wires.
Mr B
I have almost the exact same setup as you and I am having the exact same issues with the system. I have add a capacitor to the CDI box and the ground wire to the base of the carb. I have tried all the same things you have with very little luck. The only way I've gotten the motor to run and drive down the road is to set it up as no timing control and route the distributor pick wiring on top of the firewall away from interference. But after the motor gets fully up to temp if I move the pickup wire coming from the distributor a little the motor will shut down and the FiTech system relay will chatter, the fuel pump will turn on and off, etc. I have tried 2 different distributors with this setup and the same results.
Have you been able to resolve your problem?
Dave
Quote from Dave68 on November 2, 2018, 3:14 pmMr B
I have almost the exact same setup as you and I am having the exact same issues with the system. I have add a capacitor to the CDI box and the ground wire to the base of the carb. I have tried all the same things you have with very little luck. The only way I've gotten the motor to run and drive down the road is to set it up as no timing control and route the distributor pick wiring on top of the firewall away from interference. But after the motor gets fully up to temp if I move the pickup wire coming from the distributor a little the motor will shut down and the FiTech system relay will chatter, the fuel pump will turn on and off, etc. I have tried 2 different distributors with this setup and the same results.
Have you been able to resolve your problem?
Dave
Dave,
Did you ever resolve this problem with the FiTech? I’m having the same issue as you and Mr.B, where the car will shut off when reaching operating temp.
I’m near certain it’s a RF noise issue, but I’m trying to determine what others have done to mitigate the issue.
thanks,
Yes
Grounded carb direct to battery.
Remove cdi control box and ran with just coil. The biggest change was I had non resister plugs. Changed out and it runs great now.
Sorry guys, I had to laugh a little. Man if we get hit with high power microwave or something, we're done! Fitech ought to harden their system a little I'm thinking. 😀
I just wanted to post back on my results. I was finally able to get my setup working correctly with timing control.
My setup:
SBC 355
FiTech Power Adder, PN 3004
MSD 6AL
MSD Pro Billet distributor with MSD adjustable rotor
As stated, I was having issues with the car dying randomly at operating temp, and the handheld would display 58K or 59K when this happened. I was fairly sure it was an interference issue, and had tried to route all sensitive wires away from noisy components--with little luck.
The solution(s): I routed all sensitive wiring through tinned-copper braided shielding purchased from Amazon. This included the O2 sensor wire, the TPS wire, the coil wires coming from the MSD box, the magnetic pickup wire, and the blue RPM wire (even though it's not being used with timing control). I soldered a ground wire to the end of each run of loom and grounded to the throttle body or firewall.
In addition to the shielding, I also added a little bit of dielectric grease to the rotor tip on the adjustable rotor, as I read from several sources that doing so reduces the generated RF noise fairly significantly.
Hopefully someone will find this useful in the future, because it was not an easy problem to diagnose (especially since it only occurred at operating temp).
Now I'm on to the fun part--tuning on the road and at the dragstrip!
Ground the blue wire since not being used.
Can you send me the link for the shielding you got from Amazon. I will add it to the Parts and Accessories topic.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on June 17, 2019, 10:10 amGround the blue wire since not being used.
Can you send me the link for the shielding you got from Amazon. I will add it to the Parts and Accessories topic.
Absolutely. Here is a link to the tinned-copper loom:
https://www.amazon.com/Tinned-Copper-Braided-Sleeving-Diameter/dp/B01BIBQ940/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=tin+copper+shielding&qid=1560787508&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Also, since the O2 sensor connector is so large, I couldn’t slip it through the 1/2” loom (even though it expands far beyond 1/2”). Therefore I used copper foil tape to shield that wire. Here’s the link to that: