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12-13 volts in the LCD

Hi

i chacked  the battery in the lcd and the parammeters is 12-13 V

when i chack with fluke voltmeter the white wire the volts are 13.7

the white wire connect to ign switch key  with relay .

this is ok ?

should be fine

That means very little without knowing what the voltage reads during engine cranking.  The battery will use many amps to start the engine, and this is when it's really important to have enough voltage to the fitech so it can deliver fuel to start the engine.  Check these voltages during cranking and let us know what they read.

I have noticed this discrepancy as well. I keep the handheld permanently installed and I noticed that the voltage readings looked really low while it was running. I pulled out my Fluke and checked the voltage at the supply to the Fitech, as well as installed a AutoMeter voltmeter (I didn’t have a factory voltmeter). Both my Fluke and the voltmeter consistently report 1 to 2 volts higher than the Fitech does, but only while it’s running. Not sure why the inaccuracy, but I trust that my Fluke is right.

69 Chevy C20, 468CI BBC w/Go EFI 600 TB Unit
Quote from djstucker on September 21, 2019, 8:26 am

I have noticed this discrepancy as well. I keep the handheld permanently installed and I noticed that the voltage readings looked really low while it was running. I pulled out my Fluke and checked the voltage at the supply to the Fitech, as well as installed a AutoMeter voltmeter (I didn’t have a factory voltmeter). Both my Fluke and the voltmeter consistently report 1 to 2 volts higher than the Fitech does, but only while it’s running. Not sure why the inaccuracy, but I trust that my Fluke is right.

Can be ground issues that arise when running.   My ground method, never fails....  2ga battery to block, 10ga battery to frame, 10ga battery to body.

hi

when the starter cranking i have 11-11.5 volts .

 

That works for me.  I was getting 10-10.5 while cranking when I had my fitech power connected to the battery cable at the starter, then I moved it directly to the battery and gained another volt like what you are reading and it starts much better.  That's about as much as you can hope for with a V-8 unless you have a monster battery, or a little 4-banger.  And if the battery isn't fully charged, it's less than that.  I had to put in a battery cutoff switch so I don't drain the battery between starts a week apart.

Just started having a no start issue with the EFI and a 6 month old Optima red top battery.  It was fully discharged by a mechanic and it now takes a charge (displays 12.3 to 12.7 volts) but does not provide 12 volts per the EFI hand held display when trying to start a 351 Windsor.  Both digital battery displays wired directly to the batteries indicate well over 12 volts.

The amp draw from the starter motor, low pressure fuel pump, high pressure fuel pump, electronic ignition, etc. all pull down voltage during a start engine attempt.  Any marginal battery would also have this issue.

Has anyone come up with a solution for this issue?  Is there any adjustment to allow the EFI to start with less than 12 volts?

EFI and electrical components:

  • Fitech 30003 400 HP EFI system,
  • Command Center High Pressure Fuel Pump, electric low pressure fuel pump
  • Optima Red Top starter battery (6 months old),
  • Optima Yellow Top Dual Purpose battery (18 months old).
  • Starter and ignition circuits are connected to the Red Top starter battery.
  • All other components are connected to the Yellow Top battery.
  • A battery separator solenoid triggered by the ignition switch connects both batteries for starting purposes.
  • MSD 6A digital electronic dual spark ignition
  • Ground wires are attached from:
    • Battery negative terminal to throttle body base (10 ga)
    • Battery negative terminal to engine block (2 ga)
    • Chassis to engine block (10 ga)
  • Trickle chargers maintain both batteries when the Bronco is not in use.
  • Cut off switches disconnect all circuits when the Bronco is not in use.

Keith

I would test battery with a high rate discharge tester, Ultima might be good but are not infallible.

Quote from Keith Raffel on November 28, 2020, 2:51 pm

Just started having a no start issue with the EFI and a 6 month old Optima red top battery.  It was fully discharged by a mechanic and it now takes a charge (displays 12.3 to 12.7 volts) but does not provide 12 volts per the EFI hand held display when trying to start a 351 Windsor.  Both digital battery displays wired directly to the batteries indicate well over 12 volts.

I got 15 amp diodes and used 4 in parallel. I fired the car up and for the first time without having to use a jumper, the voltage going to the fitech was 13 volts, while cranking. I let it idle for about 20 min. The diodes were a little warm, but not hot, and then cooled off once the small battery got charged. We're good to go now! 😃 Here's the diodes I used
Make sure you monitor the temperature of the diodes while idling the engine.  If they get too hot, put more in parallel until temp is good.
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