1200 poweradder help!!
Hey guys, new to the forum and on my first post I’m looking for help! I just finished my install this weekend and had visions of just fooling down the road Sunday. WRONG! I’ve had nothing but trouble trying to get my car to run. ‘71 Nova, 383 small block, Auto Gear Muncie M-22 built by yours truly!
Anyway, this car runs rich as heck when it would even start. Most of Saturday night I spent ruining my starter and Optima battery. The car would just runaway from the starter then die. Super super rich. Found out I had the blue tach wire on the coil when I should have hooked it to my MSD e-curve tach output. Once I figured that out I got it to run and was able to drive a little bit but still super rich.
Found out I had erratic tach signal from ignition so I moved it around. Started it this evening and it has a backfire every two or three seconds that sounds like a 410 shotgun! So I guess I fouled a brand new set of plugs I just put in Saturday.
Im so far off base right now I don’t know what to do next. I even managed to erase some file or program from the ECU cause the handheld stopped showing data. It was blank but the car was running!
i managed to figure out how to load s back up file and the handheld is working. Car is not. I can’t for the life of me get it to keep going. In the pro tuning menu if you highlight a parameter you can change it right then and the car will react. I can hear the air sucking in and the IAC starts to close and I can hear it going away and the engine dies. I’ve tried the relearn in the menu and the relearn in the pro tuning menu and it still runs like crap! I wouldn’t dare try to even back it out of my driveway right now.
Can somebody, anybody, please give me some parameters to enter to at least get this thing to set here and idle??!!
or is there a file I can download or someone can send me to get me going? The ECT sensor is about 40 degrees off. Got a new one coming under warranty. I’m ready to try and find a tuner that I can hire to come tune it I’m so frustrated. I went to some hex file one time and went to toggle out of itvand it started to download or erase data. That’s when the handheld said the ECU had no response. I’m past that now and I need to get this thing going.
Vortec heads, headers, and stainless x pipe and 2 1/2” PYPES exhaust with Flowmaster 40’s.
I’m done. With the car and my post. I need some help in a bad way!
Cam specs, cam setting, timing control, fuel pressure? I can help, but need more information.
Hey Austin, sorry I didn’t get back sooner. Been working two jobs and just been busy. Plus trying to get this thing working.
Anyway, my engine is s Blueprint 383 with Vortec heads. It dumped at 437 lb ft of torque at 405 HP. I don’t have any cam specs to give you mainly because it didn’t come with a cam card. Just a dyno sheet. Instructions say to run 34 degrees total with all advance in at around 3000 rpm. I’m using an MSD e-curve distributor with a 20 degree advance electronically mapped into the distributor. This distributor is basically a pro billet unit with the electronic box similar to a 6AL built in. Vortex heads and I can’t tell what brand cam or intake. Strong motor. Ran decent with the Edelbrock 1407 jetted for my preference. The FiTech unit was done right. Brand new Tanks Inc. efi tank and a GP-6 pimp flowing 400 lph pump. I got the car running and was actually driving around the neighbor hood hoping it would idle better. I can seem to get the IAC set right. Always on zero which means closing the blades and not enough air to idle. I’m sure the rich condition is tunable but I’d like for it to run decent before I take off for any long run drive. I had s tach signal wire getting erratic reading but I bought some tinned copper braid and installed it ov the tach sofmal wore. It ran big super inch. Yesterday I managed to get the IAC steps where they needed to be and put it up. Now it won’t even run Correctly. I believe I’ve fouled out a brand new set is sark plugs. May be ADT of the problem. I’m gonna buy another set tomorrow and install them and start off another. Thanks for any advice, Matt.
Ok, this gets us started. Step 1, get the cam specs. Very important for tuning.
Step2, install a fuel pressure gauge. Having the right equipment does not mean the pressure is correct. I tap one of the fuel rail caps and either screw in a gauge or use a proper hose for a remote mount in low profile applications.
Step 3, get a Delco temp sensor. Fitech sensor is junk. Can't remember part number, but use a temp sensor for a 97 Silverado with 350. GM used the same sensor for many years.
We need to double check your initial settings. Fitech tends to lose memory during first starts. Post a pic of settings.
With gauge installed, turn key on and verify prime fuel pressure. Should be near 52psi. If high or low, I will have more questions.
Once these steps are checked, double check your ignition timing and torque on intake/header/collector bolts. Can't have leaks...
Adjust idle to fully closed and then screw in 1/2 turn. Try to start. If no start, adjust another 1/4 turn. Once running, key an eye on gauges and wait for engine to warm to operating temps. Then and only then you can adjust IAC steps. Follow Fitech instructions for adjuatment.
Do you have full exhaust installed?
Got it lined out pretty good now I think. Had an exhaust leak at the O2 sensor bung. Fixed that and then finally found out I was using a powercwite not getting a full 12 volts to the coil! Thanks for the help.