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2001 Boxster S

Hi folks! New to the site and very excited to find it.

I'm about 80% done with my first foray into the fuel injection world. In the past it's been old school rides with carbs and distributors. Now I'm moving into the modern era and it's kicking my tail.

Decided to jump in with both feet and picked up a Boxster S with a bad engine, and then a 2002 Escalade LQ9 6.0. Same engine they put in the Silverado SS. 345 horse with a 6 speed stick should be a ton of fun!

Been doing hot laps around the property for the last couple of weeks working the bugs out and all was going well. Then yesterday, no start. Cranks just fine but will not fire! In looking at the settings they were all changed from what I had stored. Showed an auto trans, 2 oxygen sensors, and the idle was set for 65,535 rpm.

I've tried a reset to factory and still no start but it does seem to be saving new settings now. No codes showing and it does register rpm when cranking. No pulse with a timing light. Exhaust does not smell like gas, but pump does run when hotwired.

Ideas to try next?

Generally, no pulse with a timing light indicates fouled plugs.  I'd take a look at those first.

Thank you. I will check. I suspect that's not it as both plugs and wires were all new at install. Maybe 20 minutes total run time at this point and it ran well the entire time. Is the ECM "smart" enough to not fire the coils if the plugs have the wrong resistance?

Plugs are fine. Tried a friends timing light and still no spark. In speaking with tech support the ECU diagnosis is $85 plus shipping, but they are certain from my description of events that a voltage spike has fried the ECU. New unit on order to the tune of $506. I'll let you know if that fixes the issue.

Heads up everyone!

Turns out the ECU is fine. I contacted the tech support folks and asked for a new download of the programs as I discovered over the weekend the AFR target of the stock base V8 tune was asking for 400+. The settings from the file were totally screwed up.

After erasing the original files, downloading and installing the new files, and adjusting parameters, it fired right up and runs as it should. Of course the new ECM already shipped so I get to decide if I keep it or pay a re-stock fee to send it back.

Wanted you all to know the outcome in case you find yourself in a similar situation.

Cheers!

Curious how and when you ran into the problem?  Wondering if you made changes to the tune, sent to ECU and not shut down for the magic :30 seconds?  Also, wondering specifically how you have wired the system: Key on, Start switch/button, etc, etc.  I just finished my install and I was meticulous with the wiring.  All soldered connections, beefed up Fuel Pump wire, fused everything with power, etc etc.  I am still in the early stages of setting idle but she is running pretty good so far.  Need a few more things complete before it drives but I am sure the gremlins may appear then!

Hi Matt

I've been having problems with the power convertible top opening and closing, got frustrated when the top was in the way of seat installation and connected my battery charger/booster to the battery and flipped it to the boost position. Walked back to the drivers door to turn the key on and lower the top and found it was already on. Pretty sure that was the moment things went sideways. I was able to lower the top, get the console and seats installed, buttoned up a bunch of wiring, and then found it would crank but not fire up.

I have done changes to the tune and not had any issue with them saving or causing issues. Part of my problem in diagnosing the issue was that I had no idea what any of the parameters should be set for as I had no issues. All I had done was hook everything up as per the directions and it worked on the first try. I had then found and reinstalled the base V8 tune from my handheld and still had nothing. Then discovered over the weekend that that file was scrambled too. New tune files took care of all of it.

As to wiring I used the Porsche harness starter wire to crank the new engine over, found a key switched circuit in the fuse panel to send the run signal to the new ECU, and still need to connect the fan wire to the factory fan relay. I need to share the fan control between the factory ECU so I have A/C condenser cooling, the Fitech unit so it brings on the radiator fans when the engine temp goes up, and also the electronic water pump controller can fire the radiator fans when needed. The battery lead hits a divider block before branching off to the alternator and starter, so I landed the constant power ring terminals on that same stud. The original fuel pump is on a manual switch for now as it works great until you connect it to the Fitech lead. I think changing the setting to 100 will make it run 100% of the time instead of pulsing. Fuel runs through a self regulating filter with a return line to the tank and maintains 58 psi at the fuel rails.

One thing to keep in mind is the ECU will not "learn" new parameters until the engine temp hits 170 or more. The more I troubleshoot and research forums the more things I find that would have been REALLY nice to have printed in the instruction manual.