69 C10 with in-cab tank
Quote from Deleted user on August 16, 2019, 10:41 pmQuote from TreeFrog on August 6, 2019, 11:49 amI found this guy at Grainger. It fits in a 1/2" hole. It costs ~$3, so I'm going to pick one up and see if it will fit on the sender.
Did this piece work?
I'm wanting to change mine and looking for alternatives.
Quote from TreeFrog on August 6, 2019, 11:49 amI found this guy at Grainger. It fits in a 1/2" hole. It costs ~$3, so I'm going to pick one up and see if it will fit on the sender.
Did this piece work?
I'm wanting to change mine and looking for alternatives.
Quote from TreeFrog on September 2, 2019, 2:22 pmI haven't been able to get back to this for a while because ... life. But I have made some progress recently.
Here's a pic of what my plan is. The added stuff is in red, I plan to solder in a 1/4" return line in the depression that is stamped in the replacement sender. Then I plan to put the wiring feed-thru in the space between the return tube and the sender terminal. The little Grainger part was too big. It takes a 1/2 " hole. I decided to try to make one myself. It's in the second pic. It's made of Delrin. It's 3/8-24 thread with 1/2" hex. I drilled the holes for the wires with a #42 drill. It's a snug fit on the wires. The nut is a copy of the one for a compression fitting. It has a small recess above the threads. I can fill that with sealant and tighten down the nut after it cures. That should completely seal up around the wires. I made a sender wrench so I won't have to use a chisel or drift punch to remove/install the sender lock ring. I figure I may be doing it several times before finally getting the pump/wiring done right and I don't think the stock lock ring will stand for much of that.
I haven't been able to get back to this for a while because ... life. But I have made some progress recently.
Here's a pic of what my plan is. The added stuff is in red, I plan to solder in a 1/4" return line in the depression that is stamped in the replacement sender. Then I plan to put the wiring feed-thru in the space between the return tube and the sender terminal. The little Grainger part was too big. It takes a 1/2 " hole. I decided to try to make one myself. It's in the second pic. It's made of Delrin. It's 3/8-24 thread with 1/2" hex. I drilled the holes for the wires with a #42 drill. It's a snug fit on the wires. The nut is a copy of the one for a compression fitting. It has a small recess above the threads. I can fill that with sealant and tighten down the nut after it cures. That should completely seal up around the wires. I made a sender wrench so I won't have to use a chisel or drift punch to remove/install the sender lock ring. I figure I may be doing it several times before finally getting the pump/wiring done right and I don't think the stock lock ring will stand for much of that.
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Quote from TreeFrog on September 6, 2019, 4:30 pmA little more progress. I got the return pipe fitted. The replacement sender is made of stainless. That was a bear getting the hole started. I first had the return running parallel to the supply line. I was looking at it and mentally patting myself on the back for doing such a good job of bending when I noticed that it was pointed directly at the gauge sender. Sigh. I adjusted it so it points away from the sender. Probably would have been okay, but it seemed like a less than ideal situation.
A little more progress. I got the return pipe fitted. The replacement sender is made of stainless. That was a bear getting the hole started. I first had the return running parallel to the supply line. I was looking at it and mentally patting myself on the back for doing such a good job of bending when I noticed that it was pointed directly at the gauge sender. Sigh. I adjusted it so it points away from the sender. Probably would have been okay, but it seemed like a less than ideal situation.
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Quote from TreeFrog on August 17, 2020, 8:57 amFinally getting back on this project. I finally decided to go with the Force Fuel system instead of the in tank pump. I got the 93502 system that includes the force fuel and the spark box. I got the modified sender installed in the tank. The little sender wrench worked great. I bent up a return line to run parallel to the supply line. The channel in the tank fit both lines and I made a replacement grommet to support them through the hole in the cab floor.
Finally getting back on this project. I finally decided to go with the Force Fuel system instead of the in tank pump. I got the 93502 system that includes the force fuel and the spark box. I got the modified sender installed in the tank. The little sender wrench worked great. I bent up a return line to run parallel to the supply line. The channel in the tank fit both lines and I made a replacement grommet to support them through the hole in the cab floor.
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Quote from TreeFrog on September 27, 2020, 5:41 pmA little more progress. I believe the fuel system is sorted out. I ran an additional hard line up the frame rail to the front of the truck to serve as the return line. I mounted the Force Fuel in the place of the battery, using a bracket that I made to fit the battery box holes. The battery was moved to the driver side using a reproduction of the aux battery tray that I got from Brothers Trucks
A little more progress. I believe the fuel system is sorted out. I ran an additional hard line up the frame rail to the front of the truck to serve as the return line. I mounted the Force Fuel in the place of the battery, using a bracket that I made to fit the battery box holes. The battery was moved to the driver side using a reproduction of the aux battery tray that I got from Brothers Trucks
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Quote from ajax-1947 on September 27, 2020, 6:04 pmGreat work - you have too much time on your hands!!! What sealant are you using for the wiring nut?
Great work - you have too much time on your hands!!! What sealant are you using for the wiring nut?
Quote from TreeFrog on October 6, 2020, 3:21 pmI'm planning to use a product called "Seal-All". It claims to be gasoline resistant.
I'm planning to use a product called "Seal-All". It claims to be gasoline resistant.
