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69 C10 with in-cab tank

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Quote from TreeFrog on August 6, 2019, 11:49 am

I found this guy at Grainger.  It fits in a 1/2" hole.  It costs ~$3, so I'm going to pick one up and see if it will fit on the sender.

Did this piece work?

I'm wanting to change mine and looking for alternatives.

I haven't been able to get back to this for a while because ... life.  But I have made some progress recently.

Here's a pic of what my plan is.  The added stuff is in red,  I plan to solder in a 1/4" return line in the depression that is stamped in the replacement sender.  Then I plan to put the wiring feed-thru in the space between the return tube and the sender terminal.   The little Grainger part was too big.  It takes a 1/2 " hole.  I decided to try to make one myself.  It's in the second pic.  It's made of Delrin.  It's 3/8-24 thread with 1/2" hex. I drilled the holes for the wires with a #42 drill. It's a snug fit on the wires.  The nut is a copy of the one for a compression fitting. It has a small recess above the threads. I can fill that with sealant and tighten down the nut after it cures.  That should completely seal up around the wires.  I made a sender wrench so I won't have to use a chisel or drift punch to remove/install the sender lock ring.  I figure I may be doing it several times before finally getting the pump/wiring  done right and I don't think the stock lock ring will stand for much of that.

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A little more progress.  I got the return pipe fitted.  The replacement sender is made of stainless.  That was a bear getting the hole started.  I first had the return running parallel to the supply line.  I was looking at it and mentally patting myself on the back for doing such a good job of bending when I noticed that it was pointed directly at the gauge sender.  Sigh.  I adjusted it so it points away from the sender.  Probably would have been okay, but it seemed like a less than ideal situation.

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Finally getting back on this project.  I finally decided to go with the Force Fuel system instead of the in tank pump.  I got the 93502 system that includes the force fuel and the spark box. I got the modified sender installed in the tank.  The little sender wrench worked great.  I bent up a return line to run parallel to the supply line. The channel in the tank fit both lines and I made a replacement grommet to support them through the hole in the cab floor.

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A little more progress.  I believe the fuel system is sorted out.  I ran an additional hard line up the frame rail to the front of the truck to serve as the return line. I mounted the Force Fuel in the place of the battery, using a bracket that I made to fit the battery box holes.  The battery was moved to the driver side using a reproduction of the aux battery tray that I got from Brothers Trucks

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Great work - you have too much time on your hands!!! What sealant are you using for the wiring nut?

I'm planning to use a product called "Seal-All".  It claims to be gasoline resistant.

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