FiTech EFI Tuning Forum

Please or Register to create posts and topics.

all together

I have my motor built and in the car, it is a 460 block bored, scat stroker 545 CI, it has a magnum comp cam, aluminum heads, roller rockers electric water pump , built trans with a 4k stall converter, 8 qt oil system don Hampton supercharger set at 7 psi and the fitech 1200 power adder kit, and the fitech G surge dual pump units, the car is a 67 custom 500 ford 2 door I am waiting on custom headers from crites automotive but there going to be about 4 more weeks , this car is based off of the galaxy platform so if anyone has ant idea on header I can get sooner let me know, I did connect my fuel pumps (at the tank 2 7 psi unit feeding the g-surge) to the fitech via a relay, and I also ran my fans through the fitech via relay controlled, I just cant start it because no headers I attached some pics but if anyone has any info on a fiberglass hood or any other info I should know, I got allot in this one want to make sure its right, the whole motor turning it with a electronic torque wrench at the top blower pulley running torque is 47.0 foot pounds, I think that's right where that should be.

Uploaded files:
  • You need to login to have access to uploads.
SS_Stock_S10 and SteveTX have reacted to this post.
SS_Stock_S10SteveTX

Nice engine... I look forward to your results with the G surge setup on this build.  Usually when guys go to this extreme they use frame or in tank pump setups with external regulators.

My only advise is Grounds, grounds, grounds.  The single most issue is bad wiring/grounds.  Fitechs like good grounds...

yes I have two Holley 7 psi below the fuel cell one is a back up it will feed the g surge, I am running bot g surge pump one to each throttle body I have the 100 micron filter back at the cell and I have another 30 micron just before the g surge , I am using  (00) cable for power and ground. I am grounded at the starter to the batteries, then grounded at the batteries to the body and the frame, and I have the aluminum heads grounded to the firewall, im just still waiting on headers from crites Sanderson makes a set that may fit but im apprehensive because there 380 and the crites are 455 plus shp

Uploaded files:
  • You need to login to have access to uploads.
Deleted user has reacted to this post.
Deleted user

Hi Taylorteamracing I have about the same set up as you do. Is there anyway you could send me the setting you are using in the hand held. I hav try to get mine to run for 4 days now. I got it to start up to day but my headers started to get red. I’m about to the point to put carbs on it. Are you using the efi for you timing control. Thanks for any help I can get

Mike ellis

no I don't recommend using the fitech for ignition control, boosted motors are a PITA to get tuned right, every 1 is different I have a big prim shot set in the controller I have the afr set at 12;8;1 at all rpm settings I am using a locked distributor timed at 36 to 38 degrees advance i am using a msd 6aL box but I am also using the msd muti 3 step retard it has a 25 degree retard for start and all other steps are chipped at 0 degrees my cam is set at 0 degrees my iac bounces between 6 at 12 steps and I pull 15 hg of vac if your headers are red hot you have a bad lean condition  make sure your 02 sensor is at 10 o'clock when you say you are running the same setup what EXACTLY you  running what intake what heads for instance if you are using a super cj intake and allunimun heads with a thunder jet ports and you use a thunder jet intake gasket you WILL have a leak and go lean you will need to use the super cj gasket to fix that ,,, distributor not curved correctly ,, distributor retarded ,,, ignition timing way wrong ,,,, lack of fuel,,,,, what is the fuel pressure

Hi I'm new to this forum and could use some help. I have a 355 SBC with a 6-71 Weiand blower that I recently installed the FiTech dual TB power adder system and CDI box to.  Currently have the distributor locked out as I was planning to use the FiTech ECU for the timing. The issue I'm having is the engine pops initially and immediately dies. I have had it running manually using the throttle for maybe 30 sec before it dies again. I have checked fuel pressure, cranking voltage and timing several times. I'm going to reset my hand held to the 12.8 AFR and the pump / Prime shot to 159 as Taylorteamracing has posted to see what happens. Are there additional settings that would help me out? Engine is setup to run on pump gas. Thanks

make sure your rpm signal wire is shielded and twist wind the distributor pickup signal wires, get it to idle and check the iac is set between 3-10, verify vac in inches and select the correct cam setting i eventual set my target afr to between 13-0 13-8 if you are going to let funky tech run the timing make sure you are on the correct funky tech tach signal wire, and run a ground from the polished throttle body mounting hole to the battery

 

Taylorteamracing. Thanks for the reply. I did change the prime shot to your recommendation and fires up much better. I will implement your suggestions and see what happens. Thanks again !!!!!!