Before You Crank
That's about right. Starting the engine after a new mod, is always a little nerve racking.
The point of this category is to gather info. on what to check and double check before starting. Some of these things may be second nature to most of us, but there are lot of people trying Fitech with very little experience.
I want to here from those that have had problems with their first start, such as low battery voltage, fuel leaks, no key response, losing settings. These are just a few of things I know I have ran into. Issues that were not a problem with carbs.
I must admit, I'm a bit concerned about breaking in a new solid lifter cam at 2500-3000RPM for 30 minutes on a blown motor, when I have no idea of the initial fuel settings...
Any advice??
Uploaded files:- You need to login to have access to uploads.
I have broke in motors with Fitech, but this was after I had a little experience with them. The best advice I can give you is do what is comfortable with you. If a carb is available, maybe break in with that. Your choice.
I do not have any blower experience. What is your experience with this setup?
Thanks for your reply, Austin is it?
I built the engine and it was fitted to the car with a Holley sitting on it. The Fitech system hadn't arrived at the time the photo was taken.
My gut feeling with the Fitech is that it will start with an over rich condition with base settings, (ie if I do NOT touch it at all). This would be OK, providing it adjusts fairly quickly. The last thing I want is for it to run in a lean condition during the camshaft break-in period....
Am I right in my assumption that it will start with a rich Air / Fuel Ratio (AFR)?
The default tunes are on the rich side, yes. You will program your basic settings and if install is done correctly the unit will ready. I highly recommend a Fuel Pressure Gauge, and have your timing light ready. Prime the pump, cycle the key, a few times. Check for fuel leaks. If you feel comfortable, try cranking. If it doesn't start, you may want to turn the idle screw in a half turn. Turn the key off, let ecm zero out, and try again. Once it starts, it is pretty much the same procedure as breaking in with a carb. I usually vary from 2000 to 1500 every 5 minutes over 20 minutes. Everybody has there own way. Usually the cam company has recommendations. Watch coolant temp on handheld. The sensor is known for reading very low. If you are using electric fan control, it may not trigger fan on. Get a Delco sensor if you experience this problem.
After break in, set your base timing, adjust throttle to get proper IAC figures and begin to drive. Provided everything else on the car is ready. Let the unit learn a little bit. Later you will want to adjust your timing, AFR and Accel. With a blower stay rich and retarded until you are comfortable with tuning.
Fyi. You probably already did this, but use a quality break in oil. Conventional oils don't have the wear additives any more.
Thanks for your tips...
It's going to be another week before I get back to it, but I will keep you informed of my progress...
Quote from Austin DeHaas on December 6, 2017, 10:50 pmThe default tunes are on the rich side, yes. You will program your basic settings and if install is done correctly the unit will ready. I highly recommend a Fuel Pressure Gauge, and have your timing light ready. Prime the pump, cycle the key, a few times. Check for fuel leaks. If you feel comfortable, try cranking. If it doesn't start, you may want to turn the idle screw in a half turn. Turn the key off, let ecm zero out, and try again. Once it starts, it is pretty much the same procedure as breaking in with a carb. I usually vary from 2000 to 1500 every 5 minutes over 20 minutes. Everybody has there own way. Usually the cam company has recommendations. Watch coolant temp on handheld. The sensor is known for reading very low. If you are using electric fan control, it may not trigger fan on. Get a Delco sensor if you experience this problem.
After break in, set your base timing, adjust throttle to get proper IAC figures and begin to drive. Provided everything else on the car is ready. Let the unit learn a little bit. Later you will want to adjust your timing, AFR and Accel. With a blower stay rich and retarded until you are comfortable with tuning.
Fyi. You probably already did this, but use a quality break in oil. Conventional oils don't have the wear additives any more.
Watch the exhaust temps. Headers will glow if exhaust temp gets to high. This comes from a lean mixture.
Dear Fi-tech support:
I am looking to break in a new engine build on the Fi-tech mean street 800 system. the engine is a Dart small block ford 427 based off the 351W platform. It is a roller cam engine and has AFR 220 heads and should produce about 600hp. Is there an engine break-in fuel map or something I can apply for the 20 minute break-in period? I am concerned with the system being too rich and washing down the cylinders with too much fuel in the initial Fi-tech learning period, which will prevent the rings from seating properly and cause very large issues.
Any help would be great!!
Breaking in an engine with Fitech can and is done, but by guys experienced with the system. Recommend using a known carb for initial break in.