Couple of issues on the first real drive
Go EFI 600hp kit. The system has been on the truck for a few months now with mostly idle time and maybe a mile total on the road at low speed. Just got the truck completed and took it out for its first real road trip today. I made it about 5 miles and all was good until it wasnt! All of a sudden, it loses power and starts stumbling with black smoke from the exhaust. I look at the data while this is happening and the AFR was as lean as it could go (20.5 I think) and FT's were 50%. Clearly my AFR couldnt really be 20 if I have black fuel smoke rolling out of it. It stayed that way until I limped it to my house which was a little over a mile. I stopped in my driveway to try to clear it out and AFR didnt budge. Commanded AFR was around 13.5 during that time. After killing the engine, it was still sitting at 20.5 AFR with the ignition on and engine off. I then cut it off for about 15 minutes and then rechecked it. AFR was back to normal and ran great. I then put 10 miles on it and it worked fine. I'm assuming maybe there is an intermittent O2 sensor issue or some issue with the ECU. A separate issue that I noticed is the TPS only goes to 89.9% at WOT. I would assume PE is on by that point but it still doesnt seem right. Anybody ever seen this? Thanks.
I believe you experienced electrical interference. These issues can be intermittent or consistent. If it does it again look at the RPM on the handheld. It will probably show a crazy value.
Unfortunately I wasnt logging when the failure happened. After it sat for a little bit, I drove it probably about 7 miles while logging with no issues. I'm assuming you're thinking EMI caused the AFR issue? Assuming from the ignition system? It still showed 20.5 AFR right after the engine was shut off with the ignition on so ignition system interference should be out of the question then. Have you seen my particular TPS issue before? Thanks for the response.
What happens is you get a "dirty" signal from interference. Causing the ecu to flip out. It can only take the information it has received and command the appropriate injector pulse. Make sure all Fitech wires are away from any ignition components and also provide solid grounds. 2awg battery to block, 10awg battery to frame, 10awg battery to body.
I wired my first unit and made all the mistakes everyone else makes and never had an issue. Ran great. Doesn't mean it would never have an issue or if I did the same thing on another install, that it would be fine. So, here I give users solutions that have found to be damn near bullet proof. A process that will work with any install.