Couple of questions on accelerator pump settings (how far is too far to fix a bog)
First post here having just found this site, excellent forums! Been very helpful so far today.....Long story short: Just installed my 30001 and 40004 over the last couple of week's worth of freetime on my '74 F100 with a 425 hp aluminum headed 395" FE engine. Got it fired up and idling after the usual little hiccups that come with something new. I've got my cam setting at 2 just to be safe, it's probably a 3 (.535/.564 and 226*/234* on a 109 LSA) but haven't checked vacuum readings yet. It does run my power brakes and all other vacuum operated accessories just fine. Been reading other threads on bogging issues and took the advice out on the road during lunch today. To be honest, I've only got about 100 miles total with the EFI installed, and this is my first foray into retrofitted EFI of any brand.
I don't know how long it will take to "learn", but it seems to be running better and better.....Anyway.....so today I set regular accelerator pump settings by driving through town and down the interstate to where it's starting to get much better: Was going to 20+ on the AFR, hiccuping, then clear down to low 9s. I'm at 25 on the slow speed accelerator pump settings, and it still bogs a bit, but only going to roughly 16.5 and then down to 11s after that with a little burble. After I got that to where it was decent, I went out and adjusted the fast accel driving down the interstate at 55 and accelerating hard to 80 mph repeatedly. It was doing roughly the same numbers as the low speed acceleration runs at first, and right now I've got the fast accel numbers set at 35, which has helped tremendously. AFR with a hard flooring of the throttle goes to roughly 16, then will cut down to about 11 and slowly creep back up to about 13. Truck has just a slight burble once it gets into the 11 range but cleans out after a second or two. I guess what my questions are is: How much "correction factor" on the accelerator pump settings is too much before I start looking at other issues? Is going to 40 a common thing? If I've got it this close to running well with only 100 miles on it, will it self learn out of the mildish bog I've got now in a few hundred or a thousand miles? Don't go getting too technical on me haha....I'm in no way a computer or technology guy, I don't even own a pc or lap top, and my phone is Droid 6S just to give you an idea, but I understand AF ratios and terms just fine. I've got a few hot rods that I've built myself that are over 800 hp, but this is my first endeavor with EFI. Oh, and one more quick question: I know the system wants to see 175 degrees to go onto the warm settings, but I've got a 160* thermostat in the truck and it likes to run cool as it does have 12.5:1 compression. Is it ok to run it under 175, or do I need to switch thermostats and retard my timing so it doesn't ping at 175 plus? Anyway, if anyone with more experience could answer those few questions for a newbie I'd appreciate it very much! Thanks for your time!
Lucas
Operating temp needs to be over 170. Under 170 the warm up enrichment is still enabled. This can cause many tuning issues. A couple ways to get around that, but very technical and you warned me. 😁
As for Accel and Fast Accel. What you are seeing is a lean condition from too little Accel enrichment, then the system trying to quickly compensate causing a rich condition and then a stumble. Try adding some more Accel and Fast Accel and see if your lean condition reduces. This should reduce the rich swing. But, do not try this until your engine is operating over 170.
Thanks for the response, Austin. I'll get a higher thermostat and raise my on off fan temps tomorrow. Is a correction factor of 35 or more common on the accelerator pump settings? Just thinking ahead if it stays that way so I don't have to come back on and re-ask after I get it running over 170 tomorrow. Or should I be looking for some intake or vacuum leaks if my numbers stay that high? Thanks again.
Or maybe a guy could put a resistor inline to fool it into thinking it's running 10 degrees warmer..... truck really likes being cooler with the compression and 91 pump swill we've got here.
Quote from 1972Mach1 on April 12, 2019, 11:46 pmOr maybe a guy could put a resistor inline to fool it into thinking it's running 10 degrees warmer..... truck really likes being cooler with the compression and 91 pump swill we've got here.
I can't advise you on something like that. At your own risk. There is also a CTS calibration menu that could be used to fool the system. It will be in the Pro tuning menu. If you don't have it, check out our Software Upgrade topic.
Thanks again, Austin. Just an update: I went for a 250 mile road trip driving the truck hard. Everything is starting to run really well.....ended up setting my accelerator pump settings at 32 on the slow speeds and 43 on the fast. Works great. Installed a 180 degree thermostat, set the fans to come on at 185 and 0ff at 175. Truck still won't get above 165 degrees, it just runs that cool with a 3 core aluminum radiator and hi flow aluminum pump. I figure just so long as the EFI is letting it run at the proper AFR (which it is), I'm just going to let it be and see what happens this summer.....first autocross is this weekend so we'll see how hot it gets then. Thanks again.
Lucas
Uploaded files:- You need to login to have access to uploads.
Nice pickup!!!!
When you give me temp readings, is that your gauge or handheld?
Fyi. Common Ford issue, keep the Fitech wires away from coil. Can get bad interference. Some move the coil....
Hey, thanks! That is according to the handheld. Gauge in the truck is just the stock one with C and H for Cold and Hot. It was about 55 degrees this weekend during my drive. It will get into the 170s if I just let it idle for 20 minutes, but the moment I get the rpms up above idle and get to moving it's right back down into the 160s. Went kind of overkill on the cooling system haha....but I do autocross and road race the truck in addition to using it as a tow rig and regular truck.
Uploaded files:
- You need to login to have access to uploads.
The reason I ask, there is an issue with the supplied sensors. They may read low. Try a temp gun next to sensor to verify.
Will do. I happen to run the service department at a Chevy/Caddy dealer, and I saw a couple posts referencing a Delco sending unit. Do you happen to have the part number? I'll just get one from work if it's under $20 and put it in for peace of mind.