fan 2 wire
can the fan 2 wire be used to run 2 fans or a second high speed fan, I wired the fan 1 to a relay as a ground control and it doesn't turn on the fan, I have since wired it to a temp bulb and adjustable rheostat, runs a little hot I removed the 180 stat and installed a 160 I removed the 10 1730 fans and installed 2 2600 cfm 12" fans I will run it again this weekend and check it for overheat, but I need to know if the fan 2 wire will operate the fans I don't think the fan 1 wire is working, the display says "on" but it doesn't trip the relay. I can ground the same pin to chassis graound and the fans come on..
specs 1200 power adder, g-surge, 545 ci, 871 blower, 110 lobe center cam, IAC steps 3 to 8, idle 950, AFR 12:7:1 pump shot adjusted from 259 to 159,
Forgive me if we have gone over this before. Have you confirmed the handheld is showing the same or similar temp of your gauge. We have had issues with the provided temp sensor.
Fan2 wire will only work when it receives a signal from the A/C wire. Unless the 1200 is different. Haven't worked with that one.
The only way to tell for sure, is to check the voltage coming out of the wire when certain events occur. I just run the #1 fan wire, and it read enough voltage to trip my relay to drive my fan at 60 amps. Check the voltage and adapt accordingly.
well I remember the fan 1 wire is a ground if I am to understand correctly, it provides a ground for the fan relay to ground to, and when I had the car running I waited till it was passed the set value I put in (185) and the dash board read "on" for fan 1, relay did not ground and activate the fans, I grounded the relay to the chassis and the fans worked, I did ask before what was the fan 1 wire ground or positive 12v , I was told it is a pcm negative 12v ground, also please verify what each pin on the relay is 30,85,86,87, the fitech is 10 degrees cooler than my equus coolant temp gauge, but the sender for the equus gauge is only a 1 wire sender the fitech is 2 wire other than that the fitech work great so far, I broke the motor in on it after a few adjustments, it runs hot but it is a blower motor and I donot think that's a fitech issue its more of a supercharger issue blower motors run on the hot side, it hasn't boiled yet I am being cautious as I have over 15k in the motor
The yellow fan 1 should be a ground switch.
Taylorteamracing, I am looking forward to you getting this thing running. Looks like a lot of fun. Where you from?
well it does run and run well so far search you tube, "custom 500 alive" the yellow fan wire isn't grounding the relay or I have the relay wired wrong that's why I was wanting to find out what each pin on the relay is 30,87,86,85 and where should they be connected it fires right up like a new car, I broke the motor in on the fitech all in all there is about a hour of run time on the whole thing, I am from Harrogate Tennessee, I haven't tried it yet on the new cooler thermostat and the bigger fans with a custom shroud I built yet. I will prob do that tomorrow while I have help or some one to watch the hud and gauges while I watch the motor
okay I solved the fan 1 wire issue it was one of those new bad relays it takes twice as long now with the fans stat and shroud but the fitech shows 213 on fan 1 and the equus gauge shows 225 what do I believe ,.,.,.,.,.,.,. it didn't boil over but I left the key on so the pump would cycle the coolant across the radiator and it only took about 5 min to cool it to 167 still afraid to drive it with the heating issue
I would be cautious and believe the higher temp. It is not uncommon to have that kind of differential between gauges. My concern was that the Fitech was reading over 170, so it is learning.
yes its learning and most initial reading are where there supposed to be my idle is 1000 it bounces between 950 1100 normal.. my IAC it between 3 and 10 normal changes with idle.. my afr for blown application is set at 12:5:1 per fitech website so its rich not lean pump shot for start up is adjusted from 259 to 159 works well.. im going to pick up a wt3000 temp sensor or a AutoZone su 102 for a 5.7 Chevy k1500 2 wire see if that will bring to 2 readings closer together but it did not overheat or boil over so I know im good on the fitech reading at 213 but even so I am running a 160 stat two 12" 2600 cfm fans (5200 cfm) my elect water pump is a billet pump at 45 gpm it took about a half hour idling in the garage at about 80 degrees ambient temp(outside air) I feel I is right on the edge of being controlled but do I increase the gpm on the water pump .. do I increase the cfm on the fans to 3600 each (7200) cfm or increase radiator size lol each path is 500 plus bucks but not sure what to try next if I can get it cool in the garage it should be good driving around then you have air moving across the core
Bring your IAC steps up to 10-15. Anything lower is hard to control with an engine like yours.