Fuel Systems that worked
Thought we could have threads that show systems that have worked well. I have put two together. Both are for boosted systems. Here is mine:
When I switched from carb to FI the car already had a stout fuel system. A1000 pump, sumped stock tank, -8 to a RobbMC regulator and -10 return. All lines were Teflon/stainless.
Although the A1000 would work well the sump tank does not. A GM A body tank is designed with the "deep end" toward the front. Because of that the tank really needed to be close to half full to deliver reliable fuel pressure. I sold the whole pump, tank, regulator, and blower carb. Replaced the tank with a TanksInc tank with a 450 Walbro pump. This tank pulls from the stock location and has a good baffle system around the pump.
Fuel lines only needed to have some rerouting and adapters at the tank and throttle body. Moved the filter from engine compartment to the frame. My fuel lines are way overkill but see no reason to change them. Also think that running a larger return line is never a bad thing. I am running without an external regulator. This could be a problem but has worked fine so far.
Electrics for the fuel system did not need a lot of reworking. The system already had 8 gauge wire (way overkill) with a relay activated by ignition on. Also has 30 amp fuse before the relay. My electrical system is setup has a terminal block on the firewall for a positive source. This block is has 8 gauge wire direct to battery. (http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml) With this system I just had to reroute a few wires and use the orange wire off of the Fitech to activate relay. You can probably get away with a 12 gauge supply wire but 10 gauge leaves a little more spare capacity. The wires on the Walbro are no more than 12 guage and may be 14. The idea behind a larger supply wire is to avoid voltage drop over the length of the wire.
With this system the PWM settings should be at 100 (PRO Tuning/fuel pump control/PWM flow.)
The latest info is that my system should not work without an external regulator because of the 450lph pump. When the system was installed Fitech told me it would be fine. Then they changed their mind. Josh Williams and I have both run these pumps direct to Fitech and they worked fine. This year will be putting a fuel pressure gauge on and will add an Aeromotive fuel pump speed controller.
👍👍👍👍 Good info. I plan to go back and rework my fuel system on the c10. I used a factory 1/4" return line. With s stock TPI fuel pump it worked fine, but the pump couldn't keep up at WOT. Changed to a Aeromotive 350 and now I must turn PWM down to 60% with e85. This works, but I worry about problems when pump comes in WOT 100%. I'm sure this is messing with the tuning.
Btw. Where is Josh Williams. I had him look at the site, but I don't think he has signed up. "Cooter" too...
Im running the Tanks Inc EFI tank with Aeromotive Stealth intake pump. I installed the pump with Jakefab mount, Aeromotive harness and relay. I using my existing lines that I had from the carb setup. 8AN feed with reducer at the engine to 6AN feed at the fiTech. My return is a 6AN back to the tank. Im currently using a 10 micron Trick Flow filter on the frame rail. Seems to be a solid setup. Everything was bought from Summit with the exception of the Jakes Fab mount. Sending unit is old style from Tanks.
Uploaded files:- You need to login to have access to uploads.
👍👍👍
Second system I have worked on. Buick 455 TA block, Bulldog heads, D-1 Procharger. About 800 hp.
This car had A-1000, -8 feed and return lines, Aeromotive return style regulator.
Plumbing was easy, removed the feed lines to the carb, replaced them with -6 and ran to Fitech. Plugged the return line. Put in an electric fuel pump pressure gauge. Nice thing about the Aeromotive regulator is that all that was needed was a spring upgrade.
This car has a trunk mounted battery. Had to do some clean up of the wiring to make sure that all connections were up to standard. Will sell this site again for how to do your electrical system properly ( http://www.madelectrical.com ) Added a 30 amp fuse before the relay and ran the orange wire from the Fitech to activate. No the orange wire is not long enough as it comes from Fitech. Turned the key and set pressure to 60 pounds.
This car needed two lines from the regulator to the Fitech. With one line it ran just a little lean. But things are different when you get over 800hp.
Good info on fuel pumps: http://realstreetperformance.com/Fuel-Pump-Comparison-Test.html
A problem I see with this comparison is that the Walbro is rated at 255 lph and is going up against an Aeromotive 340 lph. Seems a little unfair.
These posts are giving me an idea. Create a sticky for required fuel systems for different power levels with options for growth and optional setups. Along with part numbers for parts that we know work. It could be based around common fuel pump flow rates. Probably already done, but could be edited to be more specific to Fitech systems.
I've got the 600 HP EFI. I went with FiTech's suggestion on fuel delivery. I have a '68 Camaro, 383 Stroker engine. I was running a 750 cfm Holley double pumper. I had a 3/8" feed and a 5/16" return. Their suggestion was to use a 3/8" return as well. They said it was all about flow not letting it back up for any reason. What I went with is: I went with the Tanks Inc. EFI stock tank, Walbro 255 pump assembly(the only thing I don't like about the Walbro is that it's a little noisy ), and Tanks, Inc. sending unit. 3/8" feed and return lines, 10 micron fuel filters one at the tank and one just before the EFI unit. So far works great. I did notice that after I got everything installed I kinda put the cart before the horse and although it started and ran, it didn't run right. This is my fault as I bet other people have done this too. At about 20 miles it didn't run right. It wouldn't start and stay running, which FiTech helped me with. Even though they told me to drive the car for a while and let it learn I was too impatient. I have found that with now having about 200 miles it seems the more miles I put on it the better it does. My suggestion to people, Let it learn! If you have problems running or keeping it running at first they are there to help. As it's been my way of thinking... They have a pretty good tech department and ready to help. So far I really like mine.
I have "70 Bronco, 302, engine was cleaned up, but not rebuilt during resto. New Centech wiring harness. System - From stock tank to mechanical fuel pump to FCC2 to FiTech 400hp. First fire last night. Once I primed the FCC2, it fired right up. After a minute or so idle smoothed out to ~775. Haven't driven it yet, but off to a great start.
I had an inline pump with surge tank that worked well, but was very noisy.
The Holley pump was mounted right behind cab, and had facet-type lift pump with stock tank.
I soon got sick of that, and had custom tank made, with Aeromotive 340 Stealth Pump using Fused Relay for safety and hassle-free install. Added 10 Micron filter and ran that for a bit.
Noticed that fuel pressure gauge was showing near 90psi with the FiTech return system.
I then blocked off the return on throttle body, and ran Holley 12-879 reg with return and fuel pressure is always 58psi now.
3/8 main feed, and 5/16 return.
So far no issues after nearly a year.
Just make sure to vent your tank, nothing worse than having all this built up air rushing out of the system when you open fuel cap.
Can be dangerous if not done properly!
Video of system running.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1GoZRtgbZIou8ZG6oAOhbJ-bLuMmVIokd/view?usp=sharing
Uploaded files:- You need to login to have access to uploads.