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Go Street EFI 400HP - gas to carburetor but not into carburetor

Good morning.  I install a Go Street EFI 400HP in my 68 Cougar with a 302 engine.  It was running so so for a while, but now.  I install a new tank with an in-tank fuel pump, I get gas to the inlet of the carburetor, but when I crank it, there is no fuel injected into the carburetor, however, if I pour some fuel into the carburetor, the car will start but it will die as soon as it consumes the gas I poured.

I am assuming when the pressure builds and you crank the car, there is gas injected into the carburetor, correct?  What could it be?  I read that having a drop in the volts will cause problems, but I check the volts and it stays above 11.

thanks for your help

What is the amperage draw of the in-tank fuel pump? The Fitech can drive up to 15 amp max fuel pump, but I dont recommend drawing the max amount of amps as it will cause damage to the ECU or the the relay on the ECU. If your pump draws more or close to the 15amps, you need to install a relay and use the fitech to trigger the relay. Also does the EFI pump support PWM? You need to install a fuel pressure gauge to make sure your pump is working. When you turn the key, you should hear your EFI pump priming the system.

So I have the 30002 Go Street EFI 600 and am having a fuel pressure issue, but mine will run.  I am only seeing 10psi on the gauge tee'd into the fuel line at EFI.

You state to the original poster that he needs a fuel pressure regulator, but there is one built into the 30001 and 30002.  Why would he (us) need another regulator?  I have a 340lph in tank pump going to filter then EFI with -6 braided line.

You also state that the system will prime with key on, when I do that my dashboard has 0 on the Fuel Pump until cranking, then goes to 100%.

Quote from Mxzx on July 1, 2022, 4:43 pm

So I have the 30002 Go Street EFI 600 and am having a fuel pressure issue, but mine will run.  I am only seeing 10psi on the gauge tee'd into the fuel line at EFI.

You state to the original poster that he needs a fuel pressure regulator, but there is one built into the 30001 and 30002.  Why would he (us) need another regulator?  I have a 340lph in tank pump going to filter then EFI with -6 braided line.

You also state that the system will prime with key on, when I do that my dashboard has 0 on the Fuel Pump until cranking, then goes to 100%.

I meant to say fuel pressure gauge and have corrected my posting. In your case what brand of in tank fuel pump do you have? Be careful with the Chinese made ones as they are junk, fail, and tend to draw too much power which can cause damage to the ECU. I only recommend Walbro branded pumps as they are made in the USA, but that may have changed. The Walbro pump I have only draws 8 amps. When you turn the key to on, do your hear the pump priming as you should? Not sure if the handheld will show a value for the fuel pump when priming. I will check mine and update this post. Check you fuel filter also. Could just be a bad fuel pressure gauge. But does you car start and run good?

Thanks for the reply.  The pump I am using is the Jeg's 340lph pump.  I actually have 2 of them and am going to swap and try the other.  I have tried  with the car's fuel pump relay and without, no difference.  The pump is pulse compatible.

I bypassed the filter and even deadheaded the fuel line after gauge and all I get is 20psi.  I will check the prime, but I don't think it is.  I have an electric water pump so it is hard to hear anything else!

No, my car is not running good with the EFI so far.

I did find this reply from Fitech about fuel pumps in my email, so maybe you were right all along??

"....As long as the pump is at least 255 LPH it will work with our system. If
it pumps 340 LPH or more you will need a regulator. Let us know if you
have any other questions."

 

Thanks

Well I found my pressure problem, the hose connecting the in tank pump to the hard line inside tank had split.  I have 54psi at the inlet of the EFI now.

Seems to idle much better, but haven't driven it yet.

 

 

Quote from Mxzx on July 4, 2022, 4:37 pm

Well I found my pressure problem, the hose connecting the in tank pump to the hard line inside tank had split.  I have 54psi at the inlet of the EFI now.

Seems to idle much better, but haven't driven it yet.

Glad you figured it out. The pump you are using is chinese made and tend to draw about 13 amps which is too close to the FiTech"s 15 amp limit. If you are going to keep using that pump, I would use a external relay to power the pump and have the fitech trigger the pump, that is what I do. But if I were you I would seriously consider swapping out the pump you are using to a Walbro 255LPH pump which draws low amperage ( 8 ) and is made in the usa. Walbro makes pumps for major automotive manufactures and are reliable. The chinese pump you have will leave you stranded on the side of the road. Seen it happen many times.

 

 

 

Ok, thanks for the info.  I am using the factory relay but will def consider getting another pump.

 

 

Quote from SodaPop on July 4, 2022, 8:47 pm
Quote from Mxzx on July 4, 2022, 4:37 pm

Well I found my pressure problem, the hose connecting the in tank pump to the hard line inside tank had split.  I have 54psi at the inlet of the EFI now.

Seems to idle much better, but haven't driven it yet.

Glad you figured it out. The pump you are using is chinese made and tend to draw about 13 amps which is too close to the FiTech"s 15 amp limit. If you are going to keep using that pump, I would use a external relay to power the pump and have the fitech trigger the pump, that is what I do. But if I were you I would seriously consider swapping out the pump you are using to a Walbro 255LPH pump which draws low amperage ( 8 ) and is made in the usa. Walbro makes pumps for major automotive manufactures and are reliable. The chinese pump you have will leave you stranded on the side of the road. Seen it happen many times.

can you write a diagram of how you wired the relay thanks