Has been asked before. ECU no Response
Hello everyone,
My name is Matt and I have a Fitech 600 that I cannot get to initialize.
I have the 12V main power connected to the + post on my battery
I have all pertinent wires terminated to their assigned spots.
I have a nice ground strap run from a TB bolt post down to my chassis.
Doing all of this I cannot get my ECU ton power up and prime my pump, or do any of the start sequence.
My next action is to check to see if I am getting 12V from fuse box to my ignition at the dash. If this is lacking the 12V supply then the power-on key-on white wire isnt getting its needed 12V supply. I can only guess that this is the wire that causes the ECU to come to life?
Thanks for helping responses.
Matt D.
Ground should go to battery. White, "key", wire should be hooked to a switched power source that stays 12v in run and crank.
So its been a month.
I have managed to get the ECU to communicate.
My issue now is that the ECU wont keep the pump running.
I have a 60 psi fuel pump that is only reading 40 psi. For that issue I turned my PWM to 100% in hopes that it would solve the issue of 40 psi and the ECM shutting off the injectors.
It didn't solve it. The flow rate shows 100% on the screen then drops out to zero after a quick rumble, but the PSI starts at 60 psi on the meter but quickly drops to 35 again.
My battery is at full charge and doesn't drop below 12.3 volts until I have cranked on the motor a pile of times.
I have a huge amount of buyers remorse now. This product has been nothing but a pile of issues and I feel it has been falsely advertised as "EASY". I helped my buddy Zach do a Holly Sniper kit, and that was EASY. Directions were extremely easy to follow and the tablet actually told you the solutions instead of trying to call customer support where no one calls you back or can help you without reading from a script.
I have gone back through all my wires 3X now. All are exactly where they're required to be. I even installed a ground wire directly to the battery NEG post.
Im pissed.
Ok, well there are many of us using the same systems daily. So let's find the issue. Have you confirmed the white wire is staying 12v during crank. If it drops below 11v, the unit shuts off during crank. Therefore no pump and no injectors. Also try temporarily adding a ground wire from unit directly to battery. Use front passenger mounting bolt.
My ground runs from the front mounting stud to the negative on the battery.
My pump is now 60psi constant.
The Battery doesn’t drop below 12V. ( I pull my Jeep over and keep the battery fresh with help from its charge system)
The last thing I am going to check tomorrow is to see if my key on + is staying on.
The truck fires and sounds great for all of 2 seconds, but then the ecu shuts my pump off. 🤞🏻That the key positive is the issue.
Changed the ignition key switch and the truck starts, but really stutters if I give it gas. I can now watch YouTube to see how to tune this better. Starts a few times right on the first turn but after a while it becomes a hard start with WOT needed to bring it to life.
I'm just happy I can idle now.