Help!
Quote from jmnjn on April 28, 2019, 12:10 amI was advised by tech support that the reluctor was known to fail on the RTR distributor I was using.
So after reassembling and restarting the engine, I had the same result, 0 IAC step and idle fluctuations from 1200 to 1300. But if I loosened idle screw all the way out, engine stalls. So possibly not a vacuum leak. So I was back to where I started.
I decided to replace my distributor with a 2 wire I picked up on Amazon so that Fitech can control the timing all the while addressing the possible bad reluctor idea. After phasing the distributor per instructions I started up the engine not knowing what was going to happen. To my surprise the fitech adjusted my timing and IAC steps stayed at 5 to 8 and held its idle at 950 rpm which is what my target was set to.
So after months of tearing through the motor trying to find a vacuum leak, it ended up being a faulty distributor. Now I can start driving it so that the system can learn and I can dial it in . But as of now, the engine is running great.
Thanks again for the help. I will continue to update my post as I learn.
I was advised by tech support that the reluctor was known to fail on the RTR distributor I was using.
So after reassembling and restarting the engine, I had the same result, 0 IAC step and idle fluctuations from 1200 to 1300. But if I loosened idle screw all the way out, engine stalls. So possibly not a vacuum leak. So I was back to where I started.
I decided to replace my distributor with a 2 wire I picked up on Amazon so that Fitech can control the timing all the while addressing the possible bad reluctor idea. After phasing the distributor per instructions I started up the engine not knowing what was going to happen. To my surprise the fitech adjusted my timing and IAC steps stayed at 5 to 8 and held its idle at 950 rpm which is what my target was set to.
So after months of tearing through the motor trying to find a vacuum leak, it ended up being a faulty distributor. Now I can start driving it so that the system can learn and I can dial it in . But as of now, the engine is running great.
Thanks again for the help. I will continue to update my post as I learn.
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Quote from jmnjn on May 3, 2019, 11:37 pmHey guys, so I had a chance to take the car out for a drive and get the fitech learning my driving habits and such. I was driving it and all of a sudden it sputtered out and stalled on me. When I looked at my handheld it showed my rpm at 59000. I was like huh? The handheld froze. So I turned the key off and back on and the handheld came back. I was able to restart the engine after a couple of tries. I immediately headed back to my garage. After reading more on the net and emailing tech support, I was advised that I should ground the blue “tach” wire in order to eliminate any noise on that line. So I put a mesh wire sleeve over the wire and grounded it. On my test drive, the car ran great and no more rpm noise. I will continue to drive and see what other issues I may come across.
Hey guys, so I had a chance to take the car out for a drive and get the fitech learning my driving habits and such. I was driving it and all of a sudden it sputtered out and stalled on me. When I looked at my handheld it showed my rpm at 59000. I was like huh? The handheld froze. So I turned the key off and back on and the handheld came back. I was able to restart the engine after a couple of tries. I immediately headed back to my garage. After reading more on the net and emailing tech support, I was advised that I should ground the blue “tach” wire in order to eliminate any noise on that line. So I put a mesh wire sleeve over the wire and grounded it. On my test drive, the car ran great and no more rpm noise. I will continue to drive and see what other issues I may come across.
Quote from bdhulderman on May 4, 2019, 12:28 amIf it's been awhile since you last started it, make sure you have at least 9-10 volts during cranking, or it will run like crap. Sorry, but tat's what happened to me. I charged my battery, pulled the plugs and cleaned them, then fired it up, and it ran great.
If it's been awhile since you last started it, make sure you have at least 9-10 volts during cranking, or it will run like crap. Sorry, but tat's what happened to me. I charged my battery, pulled the plugs and cleaned them, then fired it up, and it ran great.
Quote from jmnjn on May 18, 2019, 8:59 amThanks for the suggestion, I did end up having to clean up my plugs as they were all built up with carbon. I leaned out my mixture and that seemed to help. Also on another not, even though I grounded out my tach wire, I still get the rpm noise occasionally. I read somewhere that it your coil is near the ecu on the throttle body, that may have an effect. Has anyone else heard this? The pic below shows how close it was to the ecu. I moved my to the front of the head and will see how it goes. Other than the occasional rpm noise, the system is reliable and always starts right up.
Thanks for the suggestion, I did end up having to clean up my plugs as they were all built up with carbon. I leaned out my mixture and that seemed to help. Also on another not, even though I grounded out my tach wire, I still get the rpm noise occasionally. I read somewhere that it your coil is near the ecu on the throttle body, that may have an effect. Has anyone else heard this? The pic below shows how close it was to the ecu. I moved my to the front of the head and will see how it goes. Other than the occasional rpm noise, the system is reliable and always starts right up.
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Quote from Deleted user on May 18, 2019, 1:22 pmVery common issue with Ford's. Where the coil is at in your picture is BAD!!!!!
Very common issue with Ford's. Where the coil is at in your picture is BAD!!!!!
