How to change shift points and firmness?
Quote from Damerjo on May 7, 2019, 3:54 amThank you for help, I was wondering since I bought it over a year ago if there was an update but I could not find anywhere if there was.
So far really impressed with this system, start up and initial drive went really well
Thank you for help, I was wondering since I bought it over a year ago if there was an update but I could not find anywhere if there was.
So far really impressed with this system, start up and initial drive went really well
Quote from lo54ls on June 18, 2019, 10:53 pmHere's an update regarding shift firmness. So, after a few conversations with FiTech, a burnt up transmission, and some interpretation, I finally figured out the correct adjustments to increase line pressure. Which, in turn, will increase shift firmness and the transmission's clutch's holding strength.
FiTech finally sent me an LS Transmission screen definition sheet for laptop tuning the Ultimate LS system. Needless to say, only a few of the screens referenced on the sheet are available through the handheld.
What the sheet referenced is that the laptop tuning and the handheld have two different line pressure screens that each have different functionality. The laptop tuning line pressure screen's definition says that the % field is a factor of the pressure bypass value. Therefore, the lower the value, the less bypass, and the higher the line pressure. However, the "small screen" version of this, for the handheld, is referenced as having the opposite logic. Whereas the higher the %, the higher the line pressure. THIS IS NOT CORRECT! At least on the retro LS system, this is not correct. The % field is a % factor of the bypass value duty cycle. Therefore, the lower the number, the higher the line pressure.
Once I figured this out, and had my trans rebuilt, now she shifts lightning fast, firm, and the trans runs nice and cool (presumably the result of reduced/eliminated clutch slip).
Just to reiterate my disclaimer above, what I found is true for the Retro LS system I have. Whether this also pertains to the Ultimate LS, Go Shift, or newer systems, I am not sure.
Attached is the LS Transmission laptop screen definition sheet I received.
Here's an update regarding shift firmness. So, after a few conversations with FiTech, a burnt up transmission, and some interpretation, I finally figured out the correct adjustments to increase line pressure. Which, in turn, will increase shift firmness and the transmission's clutch's holding strength.
FiTech finally sent me an LS Transmission screen definition sheet for laptop tuning the Ultimate LS system. Needless to say, only a few of the screens referenced on the sheet are available through the handheld.
What the sheet referenced is that the laptop tuning and the handheld have two different line pressure screens that each have different functionality. The laptop tuning line pressure screen's definition says that the % field is a factor of the pressure bypass value. Therefore, the lower the value, the less bypass, and the higher the line pressure. However, the "small screen" version of this, for the handheld, is referenced as having the opposite logic. Whereas the higher the %, the higher the line pressure. THIS IS NOT CORRECT! At least on the retro LS system, this is not correct. The % field is a % factor of the bypass value duty cycle. Therefore, the lower the number, the higher the line pressure.
Once I figured this out, and had my trans rebuilt, now she shifts lightning fast, firm, and the trans runs nice and cool (presumably the result of reduced/eliminated clutch slip).
Just to reiterate my disclaimer above, what I found is true for the Retro LS system I have. Whether this also pertains to the Ultimate LS, Go Shift, or newer systems, I am not sure.
Attached is the LS Transmission laptop screen definition sheet I received.
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Quote from Deleted user on June 19, 2019, 9:01 amGreat information. Thank you. I will get that posted in the instructions section also.
I have a Go Shift. Building a 4L60 soon. Will update as I use the system.
Great information. Thank you. I will get that posted in the instructions section also.
I have a Go Shift. Building a 4L60 soon. Will update as I use the system.
Quote from 69chevelle on August 24, 2019, 7:49 amHi !
regarding the trans line pressure, the spreadsheet above doesn’t apply to the ultimate ls 70004 kit. After some testing with mine the higher is the value , the higher is the pressure and firmness.
Hi !
regarding the trans line pressure, the spreadsheet above doesn’t apply to the ultimate ls 70004 kit. After some testing with mine the higher is the value , the higher is the pressure and firmness.
Quote from djulie11 on September 28, 2019, 12:51 amHelp..I have a new 33 Ford street rod with an L33 5.3 and a built 4l60e. When I questioned builder I was told car has a mild stall and they couldn't remember if they connected yellow brake wire. Its hidden under dash-I found it but car has digital gauges and an rfid start and taking dash out to trace down where yellow wire is connected is almost impossible? I do not care if my converter locks I just wanna soften up the shifts ,,its a light car that runs well and I don't need it this strong. its a beast. I have 60 miles on car. when driving it shifts thru gears but it grabs passing gear super hard. When coming down a large hill trans holds car back. im running a 29.31 in tire and 3.73's..Ecm shows two codes one for converter and a pressure code. Only thing I have changed in trans settings is forced upshift rpm down to 5400 instead of 6000. I recently unhooked batter to do some welding and when reconnected have codes,,was they there before -i dont know..they wont clear they are back as soon as car is running? I've got a pile of cash in this and dont wanna blow out tranny. Im almost to point id buy a seperate trans controller thats user friendly but i sure dont want to, and I should not have to..Its retro LS system with trans control..can someone show me what they have done for acceptable settings? Or if someone lives near WV 26222 I would even pay them 1000.00 to come do some trans tuning. I have to drive it 90 min week after next and I just dont wanna blow up trans.
Help..I have a new 33 Ford street rod with an L33 5.3 and a built 4l60e. When I questioned builder I was told car has a mild stall and they couldn't remember if they connected yellow brake wire. Its hidden under dash-I found it but car has digital gauges and an rfid start and taking dash out to trace down where yellow wire is connected is almost impossible? I do not care if my converter locks I just wanna soften up the shifts ,,its a light car that runs well and I don't need it this strong. its a beast. I have 60 miles on car. when driving it shifts thru gears but it grabs passing gear super hard. When coming down a large hill trans holds car back. im running a 29.31 in tire and 3.73's..Ecm shows two codes one for converter and a pressure code. Only thing I have changed in trans settings is forced upshift rpm down to 5400 instead of 6000. I recently unhooked batter to do some welding and when reconnected have codes,,was they there before -i dont know..they wont clear they are back as soon as car is running? I've got a pile of cash in this and dont wanna blow out tranny. Im almost to point id buy a seperate trans controller thats user friendly but i sure dont want to, and I should not have to..Its retro LS system with trans control..can someone show me what they have done for acceptable settings? Or if someone lives near WV 26222 I would even pay them 1000.00 to come do some trans tuning. I have to drive it 90 min week after next and I just dont wanna blow up trans.
