Quote from Paul Bell on February 18, 2019, 12:52 pm

It sounds like you've done your homework.

I know the ECM will function with 58x crank and 1x cam sensors, my setup has that.

Quote from 91jeep on February 20, 2019, 11:03 am

Can someone verify I have the correct coil packs.  I started this build with a bare block, so want to make sure all parts are compatible

IGNITION COILS FOR 5.7L or 8.1L V8 vehicles, including 2004-2005 CTS V, 2002 Avalanche 2500, 1998-2002 Camaro, 1997-2004 Corvette, 2001-2004 Corvette Z06, 2001-2002 C3500, 2001-2002 Silverado 2500 HD, 2001-2002 Silverado 3500, 2001-2002 Suburban 2500, 2001-2002 G3500 Express, 1998-1999 P30, 2001-2002 C3500, 2001-2002 Sierra 2500 HD, 2001-2002 Sierra 3500, 2001-2002 G3500 Savana, 1998-1999 P35/P3500, 2001-2002 Yukon XL 2500, 1998-2002 Firebird, and 2004 GTO....Compatible Part Numbers: D580 5C1078 E247 52-1573 IC334 C1144 UF192 12556450 12558948

The block I have came out of my 1999 vette.  5.7 liter.

Also, I purchased the following coil wiring harness to connect to the Fitech wiring harness.

Michigan Motorsorts LS1 LS6 Ignition Coil Harness Set for Relocation Brackets - Fits 1997-2005 Camaro Firebird GTO Swap.

Let me know if anyone thinks these parts do not work with the Fitech system.

Thanks

Quote from Paul Bell on February 20, 2019, 11:45 am

All GM LS coils will work with the Fitech ECM. Some coils can have a different dwell to make them perform better, a tuner can set them.

LS1 & 6 coils and harnesses have a different coil plug configuration than all the rest.

The 585 round body truck coils with the external heat inks are generally considered more powerful than the rest and can be tuned with more dwell. I have them on all my vehicles without issue. Here's a set with brackets and harnesses (the seller incorrectly listed them as LS1):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS-LS1-ENGINE-IGNITION-COIL-PACK-SET-OEM-GM-LSX4-8L-5-3L-6-0L-6-2L-VORTEC/183689110444?hash=item2ac4b963ac:g:fcoAAOSwRKtcaJLv:rk:5:pf:1&LH_ItemCondition=3000&frcectupt=true

I've never seen any proof that aftermarket coils are better and MSD coils used to go bad very quickly, I don't know if they every found and fixed the problem.

 

Quote from Alank on February 20, 2019, 7:56 pm

All your issues are the same as I was having. Check everything single pin in every plug. I just got mine started today, ended up being the crank sensor. I installed a brand new one when I put the motor together.  Just now put the original in, fired right up. Now I can't get it to idle, always something.

Quote from 91jeep on February 20, 2019, 11:17 pm

OK, The daily update.

Replaced the Cam sensor and it sounds like it wants to run more than it did.  It will hit while cranking and will continue to try to run for 2 to 3 seconds after you release the key.

So it sounded to me like it was not getting enough fuel.  So I held the throttle down about 15% and low and behold, it cranks and runs and has good oil pressure.  So the battle is half over.  It will idle with the throttle open but when you let off and the idle come down to about 700, it starts to stall and will die.

Does anyone know where in the hand held I need to go and what changes need to be made to help starting and running.

My wife is very glad to hear it run.  She knows it will be out of the basement before long. 🙂

Thanks for any suggestions.

Quote from Deleted user on February 20, 2019, 11:26 pm

Read your instructions about setting the IAC.  Sounds like you need to adjust the throttle screw.

Quote from 91jeep on February 22, 2019, 10:12 am

Well it time for another update.

I screwed the throttle limit screw in about 3 turns and it cranked right up.  RPM about 1100.  After I finished jumping around and yelling "It's Alive!!", the rpm started coming down.  Engine warmed up to about 180 and rpm at 900.  Oil pressure good.

I backed off on the idle screw slowly and the rpm continued to come down and it finally stopped dropping once the system hit 675 to 750 rpm. I continued to work on what I thought was the IAC setting, but now in retrospect, I think I took it too far.  It will not crank again.  I reduced the idle speed using the screw and noticed when it hit about 700, the screw no longer had an impact. Now I realize that was the time the ECU took over to control the engine rpm. I should have started looking at the IAC numbers at that time and try to get that to less than 10 then.  But for some reason, I thought the idle screw needed to be unscrewed completely for the system to be setup correctly.  But it is not.  It idle screw is used to set the "starting Point" or minimum open position of the throttle blade for starting.  I will work on it again tonight

I know this sounds very simplistic for some of you, but I am old school engine.  I have built a couple of LS engines, but used the already setup and running ECU. So this type of issue never came up.  I posted this information here so any other "New-Be's" might have it and not make the same mistake.  In my opinion, there needs to be a written set of start up instructions that could be followed to help people like me.  That information may already exist, but i have not been able to find it.  I looked.

My suggestion for the layout of the instructions. (I start the below instructions because this is what cost me so much time and effort.  Trouble shooting. I had everything wired completely thinking this would start right up.  I ended up disconnecting every connection to the vehicle and getting it down to the 5 electrical connections requires of the system to run.)

After you have completed the installation of the hardware and before you start the connections to the vehicles internal wiring harness, start here.

1. Make 5 electrical connections from the Fitech wiring harness
   1. Connect 2 black cables to the engine block for ECU grounds
   2. Connect 2 red power cables to the battery connection the starter.
   3. Put an alligator clip on the red "Key" wire to be used to connect to the positive side of the battery for initial startup.
2. Try to crank the engine.
   1. If it starts, go to step 3.
   2. If it does not start
      1. Is your cranking rpm above 150
         1. If yes, Go to Step YY
         2. If no, check crank sensor an make sure you have the correct sensor 58X or 24X for your crank and make sure you have the correct tune selected in the programmer.
            1. If you have the correct sensor, re-flash your programmer with a new tune. See instruction here
      2. Do you have the 58 lbs of fuel pressure required?
         1. Yes, continue to next step.
         2. No
            1. Does your fuel pump run at all when the system is powered up?
               1. Yes, continue to next step.
               2. No,
                  1. Etc...
      3. Does it sound like it is trying to crank. spits sputters..
         1. If Yes, screw in idle screw one turn and try again and repeat
         2. If No, Check coil pack connectors for proper location
      4. Etc
      5. Etc
      6. Etc.
   3. After the engine is running,
      1. Make electrical connection for fan cooling control
      2. Is idle speed correct
         1. If yes...
         2. If no, Adjust IAC  See instruction here
      3. Is AFR reading on handheld correct
         1. If yes, go to next step
         2. If no, adjust AFR.  See instruction here
      4. Etc
      5. Etc
   4. ETC
   5. ETC

 

I think you get my point.  I flow chart showing what to do if this or that happens would be great for anyone trying to install your system.  This could be a growing document as different items arise and how to fix them arise. It could be Pin'ed to the first page of the forum.

Just my suggestions, any reply's?

 

 

Quote from bdhulderman on February 22, 2019, 10:54 am

I like that idea.  I could add if your idle vacuum is 5 in Hg or less path somewhere after 3. After the engine is running  😀

Quote from 91jeep on February 22, 2019, 11:48 am

That's my point, the flow chart would be an evolving document as people have different issues and resolutions.