New Fitech install, stuttering issue
Unfortunately I don't know these numbers since I didn't do the timing. Then someone else 'retimed' it after the shop did, possibly a mistake, but (per far above conversation) seemed to make no different to the overall performance, and it was stuttering pre\post this timing adjustment. I do have a timing light, but there don't appear to be any graduated marks on this old engine, just a simple piece of metal over the harmonic balancer cut at a 45 deg angle. I've also not timed anything in like 30 years, but maybe it's time to get back in the game 😉
I did learn today that driving from my house to work it never gets above 170, even when driving around neighboods for an extra 10 minutes. It's also a 'chilly CA morining' (in the 50's) that may have something to do with it.
I did screw around with the accel a bunch more on the drive: I would think I maybe found a good setting, then on the next slow roll on a major stutter.
Yah, other than this stutter, car is driving great.
I know I sound like a broken record. Fitechs cannot be tuned unless above 170. When changes are made below that standpoint, it can make the problems worse. We need to figure out the coolant temp problem first. My bet is you have a bad coolant sensor for the Fitech. Very common. Go get an AC Delco 213-928. It will look almost identical to the Fitech sensor, but better quality. I don't even install the one provided. Too many bad ones.
Fitech has made choices to keep their products low in price. I am sure most work right out of the box, but it is frustrating when they don't. That is where sites like this one and the Facebook groups come in. Even with the issues they are still very good systems for the value. When it is right, you will never look back.
I'll look into that sensor as a next step.
However, just so I understand things: I get that it doesn't 'learn' until it's 170+, but it has plenty of options for low temp accel (at 0, and 60 I think?) : I presume you'd tune those at those low temps, right?
Anyway, I'll get an order in for that sensor to make sure things on are the up and up, see if I get different vals.
Thanks!
And just to confirm (based on my original post) while I wait for this part to come in: Having no vacuum off the EFI to the distributor is... ok? I confirmed it's hooked up to the right port on the back of the EFI, but there is zero vacuum coming off of that, at least while reving in idle.
That port is called a ported vacuum source. It doesn't have vacuum at idle. You are correct on the Accel settings, but we have bigger problems that need to be addressed first. Once the system can learn properly, it will extrapolate it's data into the colder temps. We want to get some good learning saved before we fine tune Accel.
Thanks for the info. FYI, I went ahead and bought a thermostat for the radiator as well, for all I know that old one is misbehaving too.
Another question: I just realized they wired the temp sensor on the incoming coolant line: meaning, it's sitting before the thermostat dumps into the intake. Is that correct? There's another temp port on the intake itself (right after the thermostat) that the cars orig temp sensor is plugged into... which as far as I can tell is simply connected into a blue dummy-light on the dash that reads 'cold' until it warms up, then turns off. Technically I could swap these sensors if it would provide better results.
Send pic.
Find attached: I called out the location of the 'Fitech temp' sensor, the 'Orig Temp' sensor (that connects to the dummy light), and the thermostat location, + coolant flow. All of this you could probably deduce without the overlay, but anyway.
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Hmmm. I would move it to the intake.