New Install, Will not start
383 Chevy Small Block, MSD cdi box, 30020 Go EFI Classic, Fi-Tech in-tank pump.
I've called Fi-tech several times and each time they've told me to check a new part:
Returned and replaced ECU to them. Hard wired fuel pump to battery and replaced relay. confirmed Fitech inline fuses are getting power. replaced battery with new 800CCA unit. Called in once and they reset the ECU and uploaded the most recent software.
Still cranks, sputters and spits, no fire though.
Reset my timing to make sure engine is timed correctly (not a new engine, it used to drive just fine) .
tested spark plugs, throttle body grounds, battery and engine grounds, power in the relay socket, all check out good. The injectors prime, but show fault codes.
The ONLY thing i'm seeing is the Volts are dropping below 11V during cranking, sometimes below 10V. I also see a code 36 occasionally but it doesnt stay on the screen.
Do i need a voltage regulator to make sure the system gets 12v at start? Am I crazy?
Thanks for the help!
That voltage drop is likely your problem the whole time. When the voltage drops below 11, the ecu shuts off. Therefore no injector fire to run.
In your case, you are turning key on, pump will prime and the injectors fire a prime shot. Then you start cranking. Voltage drops, ecu shuts off. You will get a little sputter from the prime shot fuel, that’s it.
Solution
Take your white (key) wire from the Fitech and hook directly to the battery. Try cranking and watch your handheld voltage. If voltage stays up, it should start. If voltage is still low, then you have a battery, starter or wiring problem (battery cables)
if it starts, you need to find a better switched source for your white wire.
Also do this. Your battery ground should go directly to the block. Also add a 10ga ground from battery to frame and another 10ga from battery to body. This will solved most electrical issues.
Never hurts to install new battery cables.
Awesome that sounds like it will do the trick! Much appreciated, Thank you! and I'll be sure to comment back here with the results.
I would use a 1ga wire from the battery to ground and for the battery positive to relay/starter.
This guy has a lot of good information about battery cables: https://www.custombatterycables.com/
Thank you both for the advice! Wiring the Key-hot wire did the trick, I have the Go EFI Classic system and the key-hot wire that would normally be white is apparently orange in my kit. (hence my confusion when I've seen this suggestion on other parts of the internet).
But it fired right up! I have some pretty large wires grounding out the battery, starter and engine but I'll be sure to measure them to make sure they're 1ga just for safety.