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Please help!!!

Hey Gear Heads!

I have had a fitech 30003 unit for 4 years and have had trouble with it the whole time. I have replaced pretty much everything associated with it to no avail. It is an SBC 350 bored .060 over with headers, aluminum heads, A/C, an electric fan, Holley intake fuel pump. It has a 160 amp alternator.

Problem:

It will idle in the driveway till it runs out of gas, but when I start driving, it spurts up out of the unit and dies. I have 40 PSI of pressure, it is a brand new pressure regulator, and I just cleaned the fuel filter.

I am at my wits end and want to just throw this thing. Please, someone help....

I can't add the data log, but if someone posts an email or something, I am willing to share the latest one from today.

Kyle B.

Kyle,  a fews things that I note. 1. If your alternator is only 60 amps, that wouldn't work for your set-up. I would highly recommend 140 amps for your set-up. 2. What type of  distributor are you using? I highly recommend a genuine GM HEI distributor, the aftermarket ones will give you lots of issues. 3. A in tank fuel pump is highly recommended. Inline pumps are fine as long as they are a Walbro branded pump as they are made in the USA and others are CHINESE JUNK!!!!! 4.  40psi fuel pressure is low. If you want, I would be more than glad to call you and discuss on the phone if you leave a contact phone #.

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streetperf
Quote from SodaPop on September 20, 2022, 8:25 pm

Kyle,  a fews things that I note. 1. If your alternator is only 60 amps, that wouldn't work for your set-up. I would highly recommend 140 amps for your set-up. 2. What type of  distributor are you using? I highly recommend a genuine GM HEI distributor, the aftermarket ones will give you lots of issues. 3. A in tank fuel pump is highly recommended. Inline pumps are fine as long as they are a Walbro branded pump as they are made in the USA and others are CHINESE JUNK!!!!! 4.  40psi fuel pressure is low. If you want, I would be more than glad to call you and discuss on the phone if you leave a contact phone #.

Soda,

I mistyped. It is a 160 amp alternator. I am using a GM HEI distributor, the pump is an in-tank pump. everything I read online says that this system (#30003/400 HP) only requires 40 PSI.

The unit you have uses a 3 bar regulator and drops pressure to 43 PSI. The pressure at the inlet to your fitech should be around 58psi. Another thing is being your unit is 4 years old, you may have the old firmware installed in your ECU.The latest firmware for your unit is T198i and you may still be on the T195O version. On your handheld. go to Read Cal from ECU and your will see a version # there. If you need to update yours, email Fitech Support that you need the latest firmware for you 30003 unit and they will send it to you with instructions. You will need to reprogram your Fitech after updating, but since you having issues, I would start from scratch anyways. And one thing to point out if starting from scratch, when setting IAC, adjust the front and back adjustment screws. At the end of the day EFI, there is much more involved than a carb in getting them to run right. It took me years to get my fitech running excellent from hours of reading and watching videos.

I concur with Soda. You need at least 58psi of continuous pressure at the inlet of your unit.

1971 Mach 1 Mustang w/Ram Air, 408-4V stroked Cleveland, Hooker headers, FiTech EFI w/ RobBMC PowerSurge pump
Quote from SodaPop on September 21, 2022, 12:00 am

The unit you have uses a 3 bar regulator and drops pressure to 43 PSI. The pressure at the inlet to your fitech should be around 58psi. Another thing is being your unit is 4 years old, you may have the old firmware installed in your ECU.The latest firmware for your unit is T198i and you may still be on the T195O version. On your handheld. go to Read Cal from ECU and your will see a version # there. If you need to update yours, email Fitech Support that you need the latest firmware for you 30003 unit and they will send it to you with instructions. You will need to reprogram your Fitech after updating, but since you having issues, I would start from scratch anyways. And one thing to point out if starting from scratch, when setting IAC, adjust the front and back adjustment screws. At the end of the day EFI, there is much more involved than a carb in getting them to run right. It took me years to get my fitech running excellent from hours of reading and watching videos.

Gotcha. While I'm working on getting the new software, I sent a data log to FiTech and they noticed that my battery voltage is dropping to 11.5 which in turn is causing the backfire. Right now I have the battery on the passenger side of the truck and the alternator is on the driver's side. It is a one-wire alternator (160 amp) and it has a 4 ga cable going straight down, under the radiator, and then up to the battery. Do you think the way I have the cable run is part of the problem?

 

Also, If you want to call or text, here's my phone number: 928-863-1635.

Quote from tony-muscle on September 21, 2022, 11:14 am

I concur with Soda. You need at least 58psi of continuous pressure at the inlet of your unit.

The Holley in-tank fuel pump is brand new. Could a bad ground be leading to lower fuel pressure? I installed a fuel gauge. right before the inlet on the FiTech and it only reads 40 PSI.

Quote from PirateKyle83 on September 21, 2022, 6:08 pm
Quote from SodaPop on September 21, 2022, 12:00 am

The unit you have uses a 3 bar regulator and drops pressure to 43 PSI. The pressure at the inlet to your fitech should be around 58psi. Another thing is being your unit is 4 years old, you may have the old firmware installed in your ECU.The latest firmware for your unit is T198i and you may still be on the T195O version. On your handheld. go to Read Cal from ECU and your will see a version # there. If you need to update yours, email Fitech Support that you need the latest firmware for you 30003 unit and they will send it to you with instructions. You will need to reprogram your Fitech after updating, but since you having issues, I would start from scratch anyways. And one thing to point out if starting from scratch, when setting IAC, adjust the front and back adjustment screws. At the end of the day EFI, there is much more involved than a carb in getting them to run right. It took me years to get my fitech running excellent from hours of reading and watching videos.

Gotcha. While I'm working on getting the new software, I sent a data log to FiTech and they noticed that my battery voltage is dropping to 11.5 which in turn is causing the backfire. Right now I have the battery on the passenger side of the truck and the alternator is on the driver's side. It is a one-wire alternator (160 amp) and it has a 4 ga cable going straight down, under the radiator, and then up to the battery. Do you think the way I have the cable run is part of the problem?

 

Also, If you want to call or text, here's my phone number: 928-863-1635.

whats a good time to call you. Just tried no answer

Quote from SodaPop on September 22, 2022, 12:27 pm
Quote from PirateKyle83 on September 21, 2022, 6:08 pm
Quote from SodaPop on September 21, 2022, 12:00 am

The unit you have uses a 3 bar regulator and drops pressure to 43 PSI. The pressure at the inlet to your fitech should be around 58psi. Another thing is being your unit is 4 years old, you may have the old firmware installed in your ECU.The latest firmware for your unit is T198i and you may still be on the T195O version. On your handheld. go to Read Cal from ECU and your will see a version # there. If you need to update yours, email Fitech Support that you need the latest firmware for you 30003 unit and they will send it to you with instructions. You will need to reprogram your Fitech after updating, but since you having issues, I would start from scratch anyways. And one thing to point out if starting from scratch, when setting IAC, adjust the front and back adjustment screws. At the end of the day EFI, there is much more involved than a carb in getting them to run right. It took me years to get my fitech running excellent from hours of reading and watching videos.

Gotcha. While I'm working on getting the new software, I sent a data log to FiTech and they noticed that my battery voltage is dropping to 11.5 which in turn is causing the backfire. Right now I have the battery on the passenger side of the truck and the alternator is on the driver's side. It is a one-wire alternator (160 amp) and it has a 4 ga cable going straight down, under the radiator, and then up to the battery. Do you think the way I have the cable run is part of the problem?

 

Also, If you want to call or text, here's my phone number: 928-863-1635.

whats a good time to call you. Just tried no answer

Anytime. I didnt get a missed call though.

Quote from SodaPop on September 22, 2022, 12:27 pm
Quote from PirateKyle83 on September 21, 2022, 6:08 pm
Quote from SodaPop on September 21, 2022, 12:00 am

The unit you have uses a 3 bar regulator and drops pressure to 43 PSI. The pressure at the inlet to your fitech should be around 58psi. Another thing is being your unit is 4 years old, you may have the old firmware installed in your ECU.The latest firmware for your unit is T198i and you may still be on the T195O version. On your handheld. go to Read Cal from ECU and your will see a version # there. If you need to update yours, email Fitech Support that you need the latest firmware for you 30003 unit and they will send it to you with instructions. You will need to reprogram your Fitech after updating, but since you having issues, I would start from scratch anyways. And one thing to point out if starting from scratch, when setting IAC, adjust the front and back adjustment screws. At the end of the day EFI, there is much more involved than a carb in getting them to run right. It took me years to get my fitech running excellent from hours of reading and watching videos.

Gotcha. While I'm working on getting the new software, I sent a data log to FiTech and they noticed that my battery voltage is dropping to 11.5 which in turn is causing the backfire. Right now I have the battery on the passenger side of the truck and the alternator is on the driver's side. It is a one-wire alternator (160 amp) and it has a 4 ga cable going straight down, under the radiator, and then up to the battery. Do you think the way I have the cable run is part of the problem?

 

Also, If you want to call or text, here's my phone number: 928-863-1635.

whats a good time to call you. Just tried no answer

Soda,

Can you call again, I saw the number from switzerland and ignored it. lol. Now I can't call you back!