Quote from Deleted user on June 8, 2019, 2:18 pm

Add fuel to cranking in the 65 and 170 temp ranges.  I have added as much as 40.

Quote from fljunge81 on July 5, 2019, 5:46 am

I try this but no sucsess

We also have checked these:

Voltage: OK

We moved the ECU in the car to prevent heat problems

Fuel Pump relay works when switching to ignition

Fuel Pump relay works when cranking

Fuel Pressure is okay

Ignition works perfectly

EFI gets RPM signal

When giving a short spray of brake cleaner while starting - car runs an  drives again,

driving around some miles, back in the shop after some minutes same problem.

 

No trouble codes in Handheld

 

any ideas? i am getting crazy 🙁

 

Quote from Deleted user on July 5, 2019, 7:15 pm

Cranking can be tough.  I still mess with mine and I have had it installed for years.  Try putting a little more timing advance in it.

Something that really helped mine was using an efficient gear reduction starter.  In my case, a 1995-97 LT1 starter.

Quote from taylorteamracing on July 6, 2019, 9:12 am

can I interject ,,,, when it  is hot and you are starting to crank it does it turn over slow or fast,, if slow you may have heat soak on the starter get the moroso wrap kit for the starter and wrap the header also increase the size of battery cable to the starter use all brass fittings, also you may have too much advance use a msd adjustable timing control to back timing out on start or a msd 3 step it has 25 degrees of advance it will take out on start was the distributor curved when you bought it for your cam specs, I would think cold or hot fitech is doing the same thing because it is doing just that starting I have a blower so I use a 150 setting for pump shot but I also have to cycle the key 3 times to get enough fuel into the blower to start right up my throttle bodies are 2 feet from the heads also try when you are cranking to slightly open the throttle bodies to get a little more air also make SURE you do not have any leaks around the throttle bodies any open ports good seal on the intake do also you have a 350 make SURE your valves are not to tight if there to tight the lifters will open the valves before the plug fires and you will loose cylinder pressure parts expand when hot you prob know this but adjust each valve individually on the base circle of the cam tighten nut till push rod just touches tighten to 4 o'clock small block are famous for heat soak and valve timing must be perfect especially when you have a cam in also performance cams in the sbc without curving the dist jacks the timing all out of wack

Quote from JackhammeredC10 on December 4, 2019, 11:25 pm

Hey guys, any updates on this one? I'm having similar issues.  Thanks