3003 flooded engine.
Approximately 500 miles of trouble free operation after install on my ZZ3 350, the engine would turn over but not start. After two attempts it acted like the starter was bad and wouldn’t turn the engine over, just clunked.
Eventually the starter motor would just spin with no bendix engagement. The installer determined that the engine was flooded with fuel and hydrauliced. Had to replace starter. Still troubleshooting and haven’t checked fault codes yet.
Anyone else experience this or hear of it?
Realized more information needed. The car uses an in tank pump with return line.
It would take a ton of fuel to hydraulic...
Did a new starter make any difference?
Once plugs were pulled and fuel pumped out. Changing oil as well. My mechanic will be checking return line but don’t see how I could put 500 miles on it with a pinched or plugged return line. He is going to try to talk with FiTech tomorrow.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge installed? Could have a hung injector.
Had faults on all 4 injectors. FiTech says may have been spike. Cleaned plugs, changed oil. Works but Now engine has knock. Think I’m putting the Edelbrock carb back on. FiTech would take the unit for test but if nothing found I get it back.
First post will try not to make it long..
APX 2 year fitech owner..... my list of past problems are far to long to get into.
After a short 5 month stay in sunny California for a bad mouther board that would let the car run fine
but you could not tune anything(black screen)I have a spare hand held and it was the same thing.
Before I install the unit.
1. fixed the tps unit that was hanging .040 below the unit base making the throttle shaft bind after bolting down the body
for this I ended up putting in a thick gasket and cutting it to clear.
2. install the one missing screw on the tps and tighten down the other one that was half out.
3. Removed the lock washer behind the throttle arm that would not allow it to sit on the flats of the shaft so it just
road on the threads...this let it rock back and forth apx .250 for and aft.(.500)no mater how tight the outer nut.
4. called and ordered a new IAC that appears the plastic end has been broken off while on its time out west..
Installed the unit and the car never ran better up till about?? 80 miles
What is I doing now????
Floods so badly you need to hold it wide open to start and it gets no better after that.
Will not hold fuel presser for more than 45 sec. with key off (yes I tested the pump or leaking)
Will not hold most adjustments. but will keep some.
This is the same problem I had on unit fix no. 2
This is unit fix no. 4
SO with that being said... The only way I can see putting that much fuel in to a large motor to hydro it
is to have some constant fuel presser to the leaking injectors no mater how little the presser
Like maybe a fuel tank vent that lets the presser build up as things warm up and the fuel expands.
I can push fuel out of one of my injectors with my mouth....
I too would like to know why this suddenly happens? Thinking fuel...I have seen it one time in a RM 450 Suzuki
RAY WISDOM
Always carry a spare carb in the trunk same as you would a tire.....(Only had to use mine 3 times)
408 ford Cleveland.
Its coming off. Going to see if my mechanic will sell my Edelbrock back to me. I'm not dealing with the potential of it happening again. Will add a pressure regulator. Too costly. Could have bent a rod. As it is getting noise out of the flex plate now.
Mechanic will sell my Edelbrock back but means an expensive bypass fuel pressure regulator, a relay for the pump and a pressure gauge.
Unfortunately a bent rod is normally what you get in a multi cil. motor when they hydro lock and try to start
before clearing the fuel..
Pull the head.
Pull the pan.
Replace rod and move on.
Side note..LL100 race fuel from the pump can make a mess of injectors and float type inlet cab needles....