Quote from MasseX on August 11, 2020, 10:06 am

Yep, me too. Got the UltraRam 38301 on gen 1 SBC around 450hp. All is pretty good except hot start. Been messing with it for a couple months. I can get it running when hot by cycling the switch a few times, or starting fluid. But here's the weird thing. After I shut it off, fuel vapor will come out of the air cleaner for a pretty good while, for a few minutes at least. It's like a smoking gun. I am wondering how so much vapor ends up in the intake after shut off when it is a port injection type setup, not throttle body. The air cleaner is small connected directly to the intake, no pipes or tubes. Any thoughts what might cause this, and if it is normal, or what it says is wrong would be much appreciated.
Thanks

 

Quote from 1coolbanana on August 11, 2020, 5:11 pm

Ive tried shielding everything and it makes no difference to the RPM fault.

Its all gone crazy yesterday.

The car has been progressively running worse and worse, now it will not
start when it hot.
Its fires and shuts down.
Ive tried everything and watched every youtube video and nothing helps.
I reflashed the ECU with the software in the hand held and started as if
doing a new setup, it runs until it gets up to temp then takes at least
5 or 6 key cycle shots to maybe start but usually fires and dies or just
wont restart.
This problem progressively gets worse the more it runs.
Now its displaying random crazy information like 419F air temp, 419
coolant temp. 419F cylinder temp, rpm 58,880.
This is before trying to turn it over but will no longer start at all
hot.

Have received new software this morning, will install and see what happens.

Quote from john h on August 20, 2021, 9:23 am

Hi sorry to jump on. any progress on this? is there a fix?  I have similar issues.  never had any trouble with mine been installed about 4 years.  suddenly this week, hot start issue if it sits for more than a minute or 2 Hot meaning running temps around 186 Degrees .  checked voltage at white wire during crank and it's 11.8 at the lowest typically over 12V its on'y 11.8 if the battery is taxed due to cranking trying to get it to fire and run.  I replace the battery even put it on a charger to be sure it's got plenty of voltage.  car sits 10 minutes typically it will start and run.  when it's running it's perfect.  cold starts are still fine.  I tested the battery posts while cranking with the white wire disconnected and it holds over 12V.  I'm going to run a temp wire to the white wire straight from the battery to be sure key on through crank and run voltage is supplied tot he white wire after it's warm.  maybe it's an ignition issue.

I'm really hoping someone found a fix for this and just forgot to post the follow-up.

John

Quote from MasseX on August 23, 2021, 12:23 pm

My fix was to take the entire system off my car and go back to old school; put the dual quads and tunnel ram back on. I never could get it right. Drove pretty good for about 500 miles when it would start, but seemed down on HP and don't let it stall at the light. Worst part was I could not find anyone who could tune it, and I'm pretty well connected. I work for a pretty large auto dealership. Not good enough I guess.  In fact, had a very highly recommended FI shop REFUSE to tune anything with FITech on it because he claimed their software did not work right. He had spent hours on calls with FITech only to come to the conclusion that the software simply wasn't right.

So I banged my head around, could not find another mechanic to look at it, and spent all I had for this project only to take it all back out again. Car is very happy. Back to starting right and loads of power. I got over $2K worth of FITech stuff for sale... Back to old school

Quote from john h on August 23, 2021, 3:27 pm

thanks for the reply.  Sorry to hear that you had to go back to the carbs, although in your case it sounds like your engine combo prefers them. My setup loves the FI and it had great throttle response and I was using it to control my timing too.    I have heard about so many issues with these Fitech, and most other self learn systems.  Most turn out to be install related or more specifically electrical issues.  I just did not have any of those problems and then suddenly, running temp start issue pops up.  The more I search for answers the more people I find with the issue and not very many fixes.  I'm just wondering if the ECU is becoming heat sensitive and that is causing the issues.  I do know that I'm using new under hood harness but my bulkhead harness and ignition switch is the original from 1973 and Mopars always had electrical issues so I'm going to focus on the electrical for a while and assume something is getting warm and not functioning correctly.  My coil had suspect #'s so I replaced it with a stock coil I had on hand.  I got more stable tach readings while driving but still had the same start issue.  too bad it could not be that easy.   Thanks again.  I do appreciate you responding.