Hot start issue (Data log included)
I did some playing around with the Prime shot today and dropped it to 100. Now it starts on cold and hot, I'll play around with other temps for starting to see if it continues to start without issue. I have a 800 amp battery so I think I'm good on power, but I think I'll check it as well, that's a good catch on low voltage.
Warm start issues has been resolved at least on my build. 79Z 350 stock cam, headers. I dropped the prime shot to 100 and I ran through a series of starts at several different temperatures. Starting great from cold to operating temperature and several temps in between and could not get it to fail. Previously it would start great on cold start but after reaching temps and setting for 20 minutes, I could not get it to start. I’m running the stock manifold for now so I believe the prime fuel at operating temp is a little much.
I had this hot start issue also. Cold start OK and I could run it for hours without any problem. When I shut it off I could start it up direct, but if it was left for 10 minutes it wont. I tried to change coils no effect. I measured the temperature on the TB (Fitech logo) there the CPU is and the temp rises after shut of from 130F to 150F in about 15 minutes. I figured this out when I had start problem and took a cold water hose and spray on the TB for 15 seconds to cool it down. I mentioned this to Fitech and they sent me a new CPU.
I have installed Fitech on 2 cars so far and the problem one differs in the way of fan set up. It has 2 electric fans controlled by Fitech and those are mounted on a sheet metal, so the opening to the radiator are the fan areas. What I mean is that the airflow in the engine compartment is less in this car. The other one have stock fan set up. I havent measure temperature on that one yet since it works well.
I had issues with the new CPU also but that was during running when it died but this was also hot condition standing still on idle for an halv hour. I let it cool down for a couple hours and when took it for a ride and it worked well.
With all this said Im suspicious of how Fitech copes with CPU-temperature above 140F (break point between start yes or no) i my case.
I am having the same issue. will start fine cold and start fine at temp for up to about 10 minutes after running. will start with a short shot of starting fluid. have played with the prime shot and cranking fuel but not having any luck.HELP please
You guys need to put in a "voltage" meter to monitor you fitech power wire voltage precisely during cranking. If it's under about 11 volts, the fitech will not initialize right and run like crap. I put in a 850 CCA battery and it solved the problem with starting the car back up after 10 min. I've got a more permanent solution for you guys if your interested to keep the voltage at the fitech at 12, no matter how much current you are drawing on you battery to start.
Got a mini battery to supply 12 volts to fitech during cranking.
Here are the diodes I got:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UVR570/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Brandt
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Quote from bdhulderman on July 9, 2020, 1:11 amYou guys need to put in a "voltage" meter to monitor you fitech power wire voltage precisely during cranking. If it's under about 11 volts, the fitech will not initialize right and run like crap. I put in a 850 CCA battery and it solved the problem with starting the car back up after 10 min. I've got a more permanent solution for you guys if your interested to keep the voltage at the fitech at 12, no matter how much current you are drawing on you battery to start.
I have a 1000 CCA optima that I've tested at 1200 CCA and it held! Its not my battery. I thought it was a while ago but put cables on it from 2 6 volt deep cycles and still wouldn't fire. Went back over everything today and reset the iac steps using both screws and still have the problem. Im going to try to erase iac learn settings and try again.
"did you put in a voltage meter to monitor you FITECH POWER WIRE voltage precisely during cranking?"
Hey guys, another victim of hot start syndrome.
I just bought this car and it was running pretty bad and very rich.
Go EFI Dual Quads 625 hp on a 495 olds Stroker.
I have reflashed the ECU and started from scratch, reset and resinched both bodies and all blades and started right on on the second stab cold and was running great. Got to running temp, made a couple of slight adjustments and got IAC in spec and it started up "ok" when hot.
The more it runs, the worse it ran, increased the cranking shot to max 299 and then it started fine, I seem to be getting a constant 58 psi running the Fitech G-Surge 40007
Tried a few more times hot and it gets worse and worse and now it takes 5-6 ignition cycle shots to start and just keep running without stalling but seems to get worse the more it runs. This is the same as it was doing when I bought it a few days ago and is re-learning to do it.
I cannot seem to get rid of the RPM NOISE fault, but no other faults.
Can anyone help please.
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Well, I guess you can start by uploading log file. Maybe someone will come up with something.