Idle is higher than desired
RustBucket here....
Installed Ultimate LS1/LS2/LS6 500HP Kit w/ Trans Control (part number 70002) atop a 1997 LS1.
Despite my best efforts, I've been unable to get the idle to stabilize below about 840RPM.
In this DropBox is a ZIP file. {DropBox is awesome. It retained the entire directory structure it was fed!}
It contains all the calibration and log files for this evening's run. For each of the log files, logging was started, then the engine was started, allowed to run for a bit, then shut back down before turning logging off.
So how do I get the idle lower?
Reviewing the data, I find the MAP never is below 35.5. Is this standard for IDLE?
I am having a problem with your Dropbox link. I wonder what your IAC steps are at the high idle?
Actual RPM 815ish
Target RPM 740ish
IAC usually 0, with the occasional 3
TPS is 0
Run State Idle
Coolant temp is 199
Is there a physical screw adjustment I need to mess with?
Bring your IAC steps. to around 15 at operating temp and in park. Turn your idle screw counter clockwise to achieve this.
Been talking to FiTech on this. They said the same thing until the sets setscrew fell out. Then they said, "You have a vacuum leak".
Did a Smoke Leak Test.... looks like the bushing under the throttle spring is leaking.
RMA for the WIN!
Will keep you posted.
New Throttle Body on the LS Ultimate installed.
Awesome. First time out, my idle is now very close to the 650RPM I desire. Now need to get the IAS and MAP readings in the ballpark.
Here is the DASHBOARD LOG.
So, from KEY OFF, what process should I follow to bring my IAS and MAP readings into check? In the process, please address the following:
- Which "LEARNINGS" should be reset?
- When messing with the Throttle Idle Set Screw, when should I change the "Idle screw set TPS"?
(Main Menu -> FiTech Initial Setup -> Idle Setup -> 05 Idle screw set TPS)
Many thanks in advance
RustBucket
Your logs are looking very good. Let it learn. You need to turn your idle screw clockwise a little to drop your IAC a little. I like to see them around 15 at idle and operating temp. The TPS feature you are seeing is for locking the TPS for idle screw adjustment. Not necessary. Adjust screw. Shut off and let computer power down. This resets the TPS to zero. Then start back up and let idle settle. Check your IAC steps.
Stay with the basics for now. Let it learn.
Austin!
Lookin Pretty..... check out this latest DATA LOG. There you will see me messing with the set screw, then with the throttle under the hood, then jumping into the cab to mess with the peddle. A couple of Wide Open Throttle jabs, followed by a slow run up to 3000 HOLD and fast RELEASE. So much better, and sounds better too.
I'm curious to know what MAP readings I should have on this LS Ultimate setup at IDLE. I hear from somewhere it should read between 13 and 20kPa. What do you think?
How often is the Data Logger recording the readings? Once a second? 10 times per second?
After the IDLE is all worked out, what would be the next agenda item to get an economical tune?
This setup has Transmission Control on the 4L60e. What are typical Shift Points? What about the Torque Converter Control? What else should be considered? {If I'm not full of questions, I'm full of something else!}
Anxious to hear your thoughts,
RB
Don't be concerned about the MAP reading. Every engine a little different. More or less a data point for your unit to build a tune around.
Datalog samples 3 time per second. This is why I usually ask for30 second datalogs. That is 90 lines of data.
After IAC steps are in set, focus on idle AFR. Tune to vacuum, idle quality and plug read, much like you would a carb. This will give you a baseline AFR to build off of. You may need to reset your IAC steps after this. I highly recommend the EFI University online courses along with other tuning literature. Only $100 and very good information.
As for the Transmission, don't get me lying. I have no clue. I hope to build a 4L60 this summer and run the Fitech controller. Building a new engine right now, so it will have to wait.