Injectors aren't firing, possible ECU failure
Your alternator could be the issue also if it is not regulating voltage and overcharging battery in turn damaging the ECU with high voltage. Not sure if there is another person you know who has a woking untin on their car, that you can hook-up rout throttle body to to see if it works on it. I think if nothing helps, you have to send whole unit to Fitech to let them test/repair unit.
I have no significant power draw, when the is in the "on" position, voltages are good 12.5/12.6V.
the ECU reset is happening even when not cranking. and even when touching the white wire straight to the battery.
so this doesn't seem to be the main issue as of now.
this is how it sounds:
i will try your suggestion with the jumper wires, but since my battery is new and fully charged, it seems like it won't change the current behavior..
Alternator is a 140 amp from a 03 Silverado, puts out 14.5 when testing on the post on the back and alternator body.
FiTech shows 13.7V when it ran. so i think I'm good on that department as well...
and as i said - being from Israel really makes it hard to ship things back and forth... time and money...
Lets try this. take fitech unit of of car and bench test by attaching it to a battery and see what the ECU does. If it resets, than its the ECU, TPS, IAC, on the unit. At that point you may have no choice to get Fitech repaired or replaced or go to the Holly Sniper EFI or just back to a carb.....
Another suggestion with FiTech TB on the car is to disconnect the fuel pump, temp sensor, O2Sensor and any other leads you can temporary disconnect other than power, and the white ignition wire. Also make sure to disconnect the yellow wire for controlling the fan if you are using fan control on the Fitech. But I still recommend the bench test.
If the bench test still does the same thing, disconnect what ever sensors, and injectors on the FiTech from the ecu. Something is reseting it. Otherwise it requires a exchange or repair.
I tried it all, got to a point where the unit is connected to a battery, with and without all the connectors, white wire to the 12V. no change. so this leaves me to believe the ECU is pretty dead.
I contacted FiTech support several times - their answer is always change this setting, try that, although specifically from the beginning i've told them that the ECU keeps resetting. it's frustrating leaving abroad and trying to get hold of them since every email sent - it takes them 2-3 days.... meanwhile i'm left without a running car :\
they did said repeatedly that the unit is surely capable of withstanding the heat - but peoples experience says differently.
I just wish they would help me really diagnose what could be the cause. i'm afraid of buying a new ECU and that it will die as well. even it's my setup specifically - they give me no checklist (at least not one that i fail in any category.. like wrong wiring or something)
I agree ECU went bad or it was a bad unit from the start. Probably a bad main relay. After all this is made in China and the quality control is just not there. Personally I know it is expensive, but do a whole unit exchange, switch to the Holly Sniper, or back to a carb. I have the Go Street EFI 400hp unit on my car and this is the 3rd or 4 yr I have had it with no issues.
I've heard that the Holley sniper has more of the same issues, but since they sponsor so many youtubers and the whole internet- it's hard to find the bad things, but people did say they had ECU issues as well. the handheld is much better there though 🙂 ...
lets see what fitech will say... it sucks no matter what :\
You are correct the Holly Sniper are not perfect themselves as even my mechanic had to get a ecu replaced. Alot of times the ECU issues are a result of heat, bad voltage regulation , and Chinese made electronic components. They should had the ECU as a external unit you mount somewhere on your car, such as the interior. I might figure of a way of mounting a computer CPU heatsink and fan to the front of the Fitech ECU as a way to give extra cooling
Well, i had some luck taking the ECU apart. i don't know much about IC circuits and all but managed to differentiate the MCU, Injector driver and more.
i gave it to a friend that works with ECUs to look at, we'll see whats up later...
ICs from bosch, NXP... here are some photos (this is the old ECU)
Uploaded files:- You need to login to have access to uploads.
How the hell did you get all the epoxy removed? Hopefully your friend can figure out what is going on with it, as others have having the same issue as you. I know I was speaking to one of the guys from Performance Improvements who are the distributors of FiTech in Canada and he mentioned that there are several revisions of the ECU boards on various models that FiTech updates as they discover issue's with their ECU's and improve the ECU. But he did say Holly with their Sniper series are also having issue's with the ECU's. It's all to do with quality control in China. I also think it has to do with heat, specifically heat soak when you shut off the engine as temps can get quite high. Having a electric fan on your car with a quality PWM fan controller helps with lowering the heat soak temps, by running the fan for a few minutes at full blast after the engine is shut off. Keep us posted if you get anywhere.....