Retro LS initial setup on 5.3 with moderate cam - running rough
I'm hoping I can get some help. I just wrapped up swapping a 5.3 LM7 (iron LS) and 4L60E into a custom 54 chevy led sled. I installed the Retro LS system on it (part number 37001), with a Holley in-fuel-cell pump (255 lph, 80 psi) and the Corvette style fuel regulator/filter (58 psi rating). The engine is built with a fairly healthy cam, but it still pulled about 11 inches of vacuum on the run-stand with a single plane edelbrock intake and 750cfm carb.
I fired up the car for the first time this morning and it fired on the first try. (Yay!) However, it's running really rough and I can only keep it running for a few seconds. It seems to be running extremely rich. It'll start, spit and sputter at idle, then die. If I try to give it any throttle, it'll die. I want to say that it seems to be missing some cylinders, but that could simply be the overlap from the cam combined with the poor tuning. Needless to say, I've probably messed up something on the initial setup.
The initial setup instructions included with the kit are for the GO EFI system. This is not a 1 for 1 match as my handheld has some LS specific settings/features in the main setup. So, I'm not trusting the setup instructions much.
The instructions say to select the calibration setting default in the Write Cal to ECU screen that is the second from the bottom. Literally, it says "select the calibration second from the bottom". Of course, since I don't trust the instructions, I went ahead and selected the setting I thought best matched my setup, the first selection called "Default Cal LS1 24x 4l60E" (this may not be exactly what it said, but it's close). The second to the last calibration setting, like the directions called for, had some weird code that made no sense to me. So, I'm assuming making the selection I did was my first error.
As for the other settings, everything is pretty much out-of-the box. I'm using cam setting 3, as it seems to run a bit better on that setting.
I played around with the idle screw on the throttle body as well as idle speed and AF ratio on the handheld, but I seem to be making it worse. So, I've stepped away and thought I better do some research on proper setup before going any further.
I did notice that the O2 sensor, with the car not running and ignition on, is bouncing around a lot. It'll read anywhere from 8 to 20. Don't know if that's normal or not, without the engine running. I can't keep the car running long enough to take a look at the O2 reading with the engine on.
Any pointers on the initial setup would be greatly appreciated.
Do you have 18in or more exhaust pipe past the O2 sensor?
At 11in. of vacuum I would run cam 2.
Don't mess with AFR yet. Get it to idle and set your IAC steps around 15.
It has a full exhaust system connected. (stainless shorty headers with 02 bung in the collector, connected to dual 2.5inch exhaust)
Think the issue may be with the the initial calibration I selected? As mentioned, I didn't follow the directions. In reading some of the posts on this forum, looks like the calibration selections further down the list in the Write Cal to ECU screen are likely software updates. Not sure which one to select, though. As mentioned, the directions simply state "choose the selection that's second from the bottom". I'm not trusting the directions as they're intended for the Go EFI system. Maybe I should be more trusting of them?
As for the vacuum, keep in mind that was on the break-in stand, with no load. With a transmission and accessories connected, my assumption is that vacuum is likely an inch or so less. Either way, I'll take your advise and select Cam 2.
As for the idle screws on the throttle body, the only screws I can find are on the throttle linkage, not located on the throttle body like the Go EFI system (and as indicated in the directions). Are the screws on the throttle linkage the correct ones or am I overlooking them on the throttle body? Secondly, what should they be adjusted to? Out of the box, the screws were just about all of the way out. (Maybe a quarter turn in) So, the throttle blades were pretty much entirely closed. To me, that seemed to be closed too much. When I tried to turn the screws in (open the blades), it ran worse. So, I'm assuming that was the wrong decision.
I am going to move this to the LS section.
Send a pic of all the "Write to ECU" selections. Not familiar with that one.
There should be a screw on the front of the unit on the drivers side. That one sets the idle blade position.
I wouldn't touch anything until we know you have the correct calibration.
Will do. Heading out to the garage now to take some pictures.
Here are all of the Write To ECU selections. Curently, I have the first one selected, default RetroLS 24x 4l60e. The directions say to select "the second selection from the last". So, that would be ReadSaveCal4 RetroLS T6032b.
I'll will post the initial setup screen, shortly. Lastly, I am also going to include a video of the AFR reading when the engine is off, but with ignition on. As mentioned, it's all over the place. So, not certain if that's normal or if I am having an O2 sensor issue.
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Setup screens
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Setup screens
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Turns out I can't upload the AFR video. It says that I'm not allowed to upload a file of that size.
Oh, and regarding the idle blade screw on the driver's side. You're referring to this one, right?
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