Retro LS initial setup on 5.3 with moderate cam - running rough
Quote from lo54ls on March 17, 2019, 2:13 pmOh, and regarding the idle blade screw on the driver's side. You're referring to this one, right?
Yep, that it the one. In a different place on the other units. When you adjust you must lock the TPS or simply adjust with key off so the TPS will reset to 0.
Excellent! And, yes, I do know to set the TPS to zero. First time I adjusted I noticed the TPS wasn’t at zero. So, at least I got that part right.
So I just spoke with Donnie at Fitech. My takeaway was that they have very little or no experience with the Retro LS system.
Basically, he acknowledged that the initial setup instructions are for the GO EFI system and may not be applicable to the Retro LS for some settings. He could not find initial setup instructions for this system, so he's going to do some asking around to see if he can get me some initial setting guidelines.
Regarding the AFR readings while the engine is off (with ignition on), Donnie said that the AFR reading should not be bouncing around like it is. He recommended that I should reset the computer and would send me instructions on how to reset. (He added that if I messed up the reset that it would basically render the computer useless and that I would need to buy a new computer from them. Needless to say, this didn't sit well with me as I wouldn't need to do a reset if the system and/or setup instructions were correct in the first place.) I told him that I would rather not reset the computer until I have instructions from Fitech on the correct initial setup. That way, I can rule that out. I'd also like to put in a new 02 sensor to rule out a sensor issue, as well.
On a related note, there are two O2 connections on the wiring harness, one further away from the ECU and one closer. I am running a single O2 sensor and using the connection furthest away from the ECU. Anyone know if what connection I use makes a difference when using a single O2 sensor? If so, am I using the correct one?
Hopefully Donnie can dig up some information on these issues.
Shouldn't hurt to try the other plug in. I do know there is a provision for 2 O2 sensors but do not know how they are labeled.
On the subject of the O2 sensor, and adding confusion, the two different O2 sensor connections on the wiring harness have two different kinds of connectors. The one furthest away from the ECU (the one used on in the instructions) has a Bosch 17014 sensor style connection. However, the connection closest to the ECU has a different style connection. Maybe the connection closest to the ECU is not an O2 connection at all? Here are a couple pics.
Uploaded files:- You need to login to have access to uploads.
Well, I took a risk and reset the computer. I also replaced the O2 sensor, for good measure. And.... it worked!
It started up and maintained idle for a good 3-4 minutes, until I turned it off. Now, on to fine tuning the idle. I’ll tackle that later this week.
Good deal. Even though the LS system is similar in logic to the Throttle Body sytem, they come with their own set of issues. Yet another fix to add to the list.
For sure. Out-of-the box, the default settings were off. Once I reset the computer with the "Retro LS 24x 4L60E" in the ECU Programming screen, I noticed that the settings in initial setup were different. Needless to say, these new, reset settings, are correct. I then went through the standard initial setup process (similar to the Go EFI system).
I also noticed that my O2 sensor reading stopped bouncing around after I reset.
My assumption is that with this kit, if a person is having initial startup problems, they will need to go through the reset process, unlock the ECU Programming screen, select the appropriate program for their application, then do their initial setup.
I will make a post outlining this reset process on the Retro LS, along with a disclaimer that if the reset process is not completed successfully that there's risk of rendering the computer useless (according to FiTech this is a non-warrantied error and would require a replacement computer at the owner's expense).
Oh, and a big "THANK YOU" to Donnie at FiTech. Even though he didn't have much experience with the Retro LS system, his recommendation worked.
The mystery connector question is still open, though. I emailed Donnie to see if he can verify if it's indeed a 2nd O2 connection and, if so, what O2 sensor will fit that connection style. I also asked if they know if there's much benefit to running a 2nd O2 sensor on the Retro LS system.
I was able to get a couple hours of time to spend on the car this evening. Focused on getting the initial idle set, then bring the engine up to temp.
Unfortunately, I didn't get to the second part. The car wanted to idle at about 1100-1200 Rpm, no matter what RPM I had the idle set at. The IAC was reading 0 (zero). I moved on and worked on fixing and cleaning up a coolant leak I noticed, to give me time to think about what the issue could be. While wiping down the engine I noticed one of the manifold vacuum ports was missing its plug.
With the vacuum port plugged, I fired it up. It idled, but not well and there was a loud hissing sound from the throttle body. Looking at the IAC reading, it was reading 160. Needless to say, it needs more air. I shut it down, gave the idle screw a 1/2 turn, then fired it up. Same thing, hissing and IAC reading was at 159. I ran out of time at this point, just as the engine was coming up to temp.
The controller is showing an IAC fault both times I fired it up with the port plugged. (I cleared the fault the first time, to see if I received the same fault on the second try.) I assume I'm getting this fault because the IAC is too high.
As for AFR, that seems to be good. It was hoovering around 12-13 with the port plugged and 13-14 with the port open.
My IAC step setting is at 16, so I assume I need to play around with the idle screws on the throttle body to give the engine the additional air without over-loading the IAC.
If my assumption is not correct, and there could be a different issue, somebody please correct me. Otherwise, my plan is to continue to progressively give it more air with the throttle body screw.