Rich on low rpm cruise
Is there an IAC valve on the back of both units?
IAC- Idle Air Control valve. It will adjust the amount of air flow for idle. Over simplified, but.... It works similar to a choke but much more capable. This is why the idle screw is adjusted only at operating temp. That will set the base adjustment for the throttle plates and the IAC steps around 15. From their the valve will make small adjustments to keep idle stable in different conditions. Along with fuel enrichment, this is one of the big advantages of EFI. Reliability and consistency.
Spoke with FiTech again and got a completely different procedure for dialing in 2x4. Day before yesterday I was told to adjust both IAC screws (back-passenger side of TBs) in same increments to adjust IAC steps. Today, I was told to fully loosen both IAC screws and both Idle screws (Forward-driver side of TBs.) Then adjust Forward TB idle screw one turn past touching. After warmup adjust this same screw to set IAC steps. Once IAC steps set, screw in the other 3 screws to just touching. I guess I'll try this after reconfirming all throttle plates are in synch. !?
Hi All
I have just fitted a 2 barrel fitech to a 62 Mercury Monterey 352FE.
With Austins help it is now starting ok but I was wanting to know what to set the AFR targets to to achieve torque and economy.
I found the following on Utube, will these settings be the most beneficial?
Thanks Mark
Uploaded files:- You need to login to have access to uploads.
Start with idle AFR. Try leaning out slowly as it idles. Don't forget to "Send to ECU" everytime you make a change. Adjust to peak vacuum then richen a couple tenths. Check your plugs. Adjust to plugs as necessary. This will give you a baseline AFR to start with.
Nobodies engine/exhaust setup will have the same AFR settings with aftermarket EFI. This is due to the O2 sensor not being calibrated to the specific setup. Find your baseline and go from there. Highly recommend you take the EFI University online courses on tuning. They are $100 total. This will explain in greater detail the AFR window for good combustion.
Thanks for the advice, tuning to vacuumed worked great. It’s now starting and idling the best it has.
As I drive it is there anything I need to adjust to get the best out of it, or is it truely self turning?
thanks mark
Let it learn for a couple drives. Then you can start tweaking. AFR targets, Accel, Fast Accel, Cranking, etc. One at time and small changes. You will begin to see the true advantages of EFI over carbs. Changes can be made on the fly and the consistency is unmatched.
Then you will be the guy everyone asks for tuning help.😁
FINALLY! I got the fronts (#s 1,2,5,6) balanced with the rears (#s 3,4,7,8.) Now all plugs are looking good with a 15 minute idle after warmup at an IAC of 15. Now I need to drive it to get it to learn. Should I reset all learn before I do? Thanks. Mike
Merry Christmas to you all.
We did a big cruse today , about 3 hours of driving.
It was very gutless on hills and acceleration.
I released I had forgotten to set the transmission kick down when I set the Fitech up.
After we got home I set the kick down which on a 352FE is as simple as lining up 3 holes on the throttle linkage mounting bracket and either lengthening or shortening the rod to the Fitech.
In my case I lengthened the rod putting more closing pressure on the butterfly.
Everything changed... the idle went up from a steady 560 to over 1000 the only way to get it down was to unwide the TPS screw so it is not touching, the idle has come down to about 750, the IAC and TPS are 0.
I can screw the idle screw in as much as I like and it only changed the idel and the TPS, when I restart the TPS and IAC stay at 0 but idle is high.
What have I done wrong?
Thanks Mark
Unhook the rod and try to reset your idle screw. Get your TPS and IAC correct. Then go back to the transmission rod. I am not familiar with your trans knockdown setup. You may need to customize the linkage to work with the Fitech.