Running rich off of idle
I just did the software update. Thank you for sending me that. I was not able to record data before.
Now that I can do data recordings, I need help. I have my progammer set to idle at 750 when warm, but as you can see idle speeds are actually in the low 600's and not a great quality idle either.
If I rev it up just a bit, it smooths out, but goes really rich. If I put it in gear to drive I can just barely get the vehicle to move before it backfire through the TB and dies.
And yes, I have shielded the blue wire.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/7lf6krccb410iqq/DashBoard2.csv?dl=0
Actually, you can see I even elevated my target idle RPM to try to bring it up to the desired 750.
I would say you have air getting to the O2 sensor. Look for exhaust leaks, and must have 18in or more exhaust past O2.
I can re-recheck the exhaust Tuesday. I have plenty of pipe after the sensor. Thanks for the advice.
If you look near the end of your log, your fuel trim is maxed out. Delivering as much fuel as possible within its limits. But, your AFR is extremely lean. To me that is a sign that the O2 is seeing a lot of oxygen in the airstream. Causing the system to think it needs more fuel. Creating an extremely rich condition.
If plugs don't show rich, then I would look at fuel pressure and watch injector flow.
I admit I know absolutely nothing about this stuff but I've been told that proper voltage is critical and noticed the OPs voltage is kind of low. Could this be causing problems?
Quote from Crankyolman on June 3, 2019, 3:53 pmI admit I know absolutely nothing about this stuff but I've been told that proper voltage is critical and noticed the OPs voltage is kind of low. Could this be causing problems?
Need a log.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on June 4, 2019, 8:44 amQuote from Crankyolman on June 3, 2019, 3:53 pmI admit I know absolutely nothing about this stuff but I've been told that proper voltage is critical and noticed the OPs voltage is kind of low. Could this be causing problems?
Need a log.
It's in the log the OP posted. His voltage starts off at 11.7 and only rises to 12.2. Will that cause problems?
I also see some very low vacuum numbers, my AMC 360 has -18 at 700 RPMs, the OPs has only -6.6 which to me says huge cam which may be EFI unfriendly or big vacuum leak.
Then his AIC steps are very high which would result in the need to open the throttle to get it to run, wouldn't it?
Quote from Crankyolman on June 4, 2019, 9:55 amQuote from Austin DeHaas on June 4, 2019, 8:44 amQuote from Crankyolman on June 3, 2019, 3:53 pmI admit I know absolutely nothing about this stuff but I've been told that proper voltage is critical and noticed the OPs voltage is kind of low. Could this be causing problems?
Need a log.
It's in the log the OP posted. His voltage starts off at 11.7 and only rises to 12.2. Will that cause problems?
I also see some very low vacuum numbers, my AMC 360 has -18 at 700 RPMs, the OPs has only -6.6 which to me says huge cam which may be EFI unfriendly or big vacuum leak.
Then his AIC steps are very high which would result in the need to open the throttle to get it to run, wouldn't it?
I noticed the voltages were low as well, but thought maybe high enough, since the only time I've noticed a problem with my car was when it was under about 10.5 volts during cranking when the battery was low.
I can't look at the log file here at work, but the units may have been in psi and not in Hg. If it's psi -6.6 psi is about -13.4 in Hg, which is probably what your units are.
Hey guys. Here is an update.
I put new "donuts" in, and replaced the clamp that is about 8" behind the O2 sensor with a band clamp.. it was leaking at that connection. I pressurized the exhaust system with shop air and a rag through the tailpipe. The band sealed that connection. But the clamp-on bung that the directions said "will not leak" was leaking horribly. I took it off and recurved it to fit the pipe better and put in a thicker gasket. Now when I pressurize the exhaust with 120psi shop air (exhaust doesn't get that much pressure as there are certainly valves open in the head) I still get some bubbles around that bung. How perfectly must that be sealed? If what I am seeing is not acceptable this clamp-on bung has to go.
Now the pickup idles and fuel trim is single digits in the shop. But the SECOND I pull onto the street to actually drive, it pegs rich. I'm driving myself crazy with this. Here is a new, and lengthy, log. You can see exactly how many times I had to restart it just to limp back into the shop through the alley.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uetg0ct337t7hd4/DashBoard6.csv?dl=0
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