Running rich off of idle
The best way to handle these things is one step at a time. If step 1,2 and 3 aren't correct then the rest of the tune will be a nightmare.
Get that O2 sensor sealed completely. That clamp is for half ass installs. Go get a spark plug Fowler adapter from a local parts store. Cut the back of it Off, so all you have is the threaded bung. Weld into your exhaust. Same thread as O2 sensor.
Once that is complete, clear all learn and confirm initial settings are correct. Start and get to temp. Send us a 30 second idle log. Once that part is right then we can move forward.
I had already purchased an O2 bung when I ordered the EFI kit, but the instructions went out of the way to tell me the clamp on unit would not leak, so I just used that.
I will get that installed the right way this week, pressurize to check for leaks, and get back to you.
I appreciate the help!
Ok. Exhaust system is bullet proof. Pressure tested with shop air and soapy water... NO leaks.
But I still can barely get the pickup to back out of the shop!! I have been building this pickup for a while now and was really looking forward to putting it in a local car show that is coming up this weekend, but now this kit is the only thing preventing that. This isn't why I spent $1,000 on an EFI kit.
Some of this tuning could be my fault for just not completely understanding the software, but does it have to be this difficult? I'm just about to tears over this deal.
Do I need to change my target AFR values to a higher (leaner) value? I have several samples here and the only thing that I have done is change idle target by .25-.5% and feather the throttle and the trim levels go from max lean to max rich.. I just don't comprehend why...??
These are long logs, but frustration makes me want to share as much as possible.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ftgg61uwdaqr8j/DashBoard13.csv?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xf16b556kbyc8j4/DashBoard5.csv?dl=0
Your alternator is not charging or you have bad connections to the unit. Look at your voltage on the datalog. This may not be all your issue, but must be fixed before anything else.
What is the engine, cam specs and cam setting.
Ok, fixed the voltage issue. I even found a SMALL vacuum leak and fixed it.
But this thing is still totally powerless. The cam is a factory issue cam. I tried to make adjustments to the system several times, but I am just throwing darts at the wall because no matter if I change my AFR target to rich, or lean, it won't run right. I am unbelievably irritated with this kit right now. This isn't why I spent $1,000+.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/yjm1hwixkslozwx/DashBoard17.csv?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/534z5r0tk633amt/DashBoard21.csv?dl=0
The system is doing its job. Data is starting to look better.
Quit throwing darts if you don't know the target. The more you change the harder it is to help. Your voltage is still low. Not sure why. Try putting a meter on the battery and the back of the alternator when at idle. See if it matches the handheld. If not, then we have a wiring issue. Fitech must be hooked directly to the battery and grounds must be adequate. Here is my method, has never failed. 2ga battery to block, 10ga battery to frame, 10ga battery to body.
I know I've mentioned vacuum before but I have to ask, do you know if your vacuum is reading in Hg or PSI? If it's Hg you have a severe vacuum leak or maybe timing is severely off. Can you stick a vacuum gauge on it and take a reading?
I have solid voltage in this log. I set my idle AFR to 13.2 because it seemed to run really solid right there. I had the best idle quality to date, and was able to hit the throttle and get a lively response. I thought I had it nailed!
Pulled out of the garage, wiggled around the parking lot a bit and it was running great. Then when I pulled onto the street and got to the first stop sign it went super lean and stalled. Had to limp back home through the alley... again.
It seems like once it decides to go lean, it just stays there. Trim maxes out, but it won't level out the AFR.
I got it back to the shop and got it stable enough to idle again and take this data log. As you can see... it just goes lean... and doesn't come back out of it once it does.
Temps are a bit high as it is hot as heck here today, but this is consistent with previous runs in cooler weather.
Car show is Saturday.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/534z5r0tk633amt/DashBoard21.csv?dl=0
Please note... I appreciate all your help!! I hope I'm not unintentionally taking out my frustration on you.
Hey Cranky.
Yes I know my vacuum number is low and no I can't explain it. I put shop air through several cylinders with the intake valve open and used soapy water to look for any leaks. I did find a small leak on the EGR block off plate that I fixed. But between the exhaust and intake this engine is absolutely airtight.
You mentioned timing though.. and it's a funny fact, spec is 10 degrees. I have it at 10 degrees ON THE NUTS right now as that is the spec, and I think an engine should be tuned around factory specs. But if I crank the timing up to 15 degrees it does smooth out a lot. What do you think? Build around proper spec, or spec to build?