Running way lean help
Quote from TheStig86 on May 7, 2019, 8:48 pm
Quote from rrobins on May 7, 2019, 3:36 pmQuote from TheStig86 on May 7, 2019, 12:31 amQuote from Austin DeHaas on May 4, 2019, 4:11 pmWhat is your fuel pressure when it goes lean? How long does it go lean before the unit compensates? Your log does not show the lean condition....
With the new Walbro 450lph fuel pump everything stays at 58-62psi . My other issue is that iac keeps a fault code after replacing it , but the step are within spec 2-8 at idle.
Quote from rrobins on May 6, 2019, 10:38 pmJust heads up the log files sample rates are slow and do not catch some things. Also I would like to ask are you using just the handheld or are you using the procal software? Since your are running a power adder system I assume you have set your Kpa boost ranges, Cam AFR ranges for boost and your spark timing. What fuel are you running? How much boost you planning to run?
I was data logging with the handheld, if the procal is faster I'll check it out . I set the AFR to 11.5 WOT to be on the safe side. I haven't messed with the spark timing I'm ignorant on that. I figured the kit would figure it out for me. I'm using 91 oct . Any info would be great I'm learning . Current wastegate springs are just 10 pounds.
The best advise I can give you right now is not get into boost or put the smallest 5 lb or less. Fitechs boosted timing tables are to aggressive and will blow things up. There are to many variables here to give advise like forged bottom, new built,old motor with new Fitech. I personally if it was me and i had a new install or new build is to dive on the system for 200 or more miles let it learn running no boost and then start getting into the meat of timing tables,AFR,RPM,Kpa ranges. Even then you would want to start real conservative with timing and boost. I started at just with a 5 lb spring first. I don't want to give you the wrong advice Stig and hurt your motor.
Good info yes everything is new and forged from Manley . This is beginning to be a pain in the you know what. I just wanted to plug it in and go drive easy for 500-1000 miles. . This car is finished it's 1969 camaro twin turbo pro touring build. I don't have time or the money to take turbos off etc. Beginning to think this was a waste or time and money with their kit . On the engine dyno we used an aem kit fired right up no issues using all of fitech sensors etc . I don't know what to do now.
That's good to hear new all forged easy for 500 miles. You didn't waist your time at this stage of the setup knowing a little more on your setup there's really only a few things to left to set then let the Fitech system learn then you can tweak a little at a time. My build is similar to yours twin 76s turbo C10 all forged bottom LQ9 403 cid. Right now I run wastegates @ 5lb low boost controller is set to 10-12lbs high boost via a switch. Once you get your time in the seat I can provide some screen shots of my procal tuning I don't use the handheld. Not sure what wastegates your running but did they come with other lower spring sets that you can put in for now till you get some drive time in? Are you subscribed the this topic?
Yes we do great minds think alike haha. It's a drysump setup too.
So I have tial 44mm wastegates and a turbosmart 50mm bov. I can run lower springs perhaps change them out tomorrow. I also have a turbosmart electric in cab boost controller, but I wanted to wait for it to get dialed in first.Perhaps set it up I guess. I'll know more tomorrow got a bad booster on the car can't drive it . I have this subscribed. my email is kananrd@gmail.com
Thanks
So was finally able to start driving it yesterday. Kept having the idle drop when i put the clutch in from a stop sign .I have to bring the rpms up to 1k 2k so it won't stall. I wouldn't think have idle at 750rpms would be too low on a stock zr1 cam. Also my iac code keeps staying on but the steps are within spec and checked all the grounds they're solid.
Ideas?
Thanks in advance
Can't remember, have you disabled DFCO. Should solve stalling issue when stopping.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on May 9, 2019, 7:05 pmCan't remember, have you disabled DFCO. Should solve stalling issue when stopping.
No I haven't messed with the DFCO , should I change the temp setting / cut fuel or return?
Talked to fitechs tech he's telling me I might have a vacuum leak??????? I had my vacuum tester on it a few days ago my vacuum was 22 for a zr1 cam that's within spec. Then again when I tap the throttle pedal it stalls if i don't bring the rpms up. So it could be as the iac is fluctuating from 0 to 5 .
Disable DFCO by raising enable temp to maximum. Bring the IAC steps to around 15.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on May 9, 2019, 10:21 pmDisable DFCO by raising enable temp to maximum. Bring the IAC steps to around 15.
Won't that set an iac code not being from 3-10?
Quote from TheStig86 on May 9, 2019, 11:32 pmQuote from Austin DeHaas on May 9, 2019, 10:21 pmDisable DFCO by raising enable temp to maximum. Bring the IAC steps to around 15.
Won't that set an iac code not being from 3-10?
No it won't. I run all my units around 15. When setting 3-10, sometimes it will go to zero. I never want to see the IAC go to zero.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on May 10, 2019, 12:23 amQuote from TheStig86 on May 9, 2019, 11:32 pmQuote from Austin DeHaas on May 9, 2019, 10:21 pmDisable DFCO by raising enable temp to maximum. Bring the IAC steps to around 15.
Won't that set an iac code not being from 3-10?
No it won't. I run all my units around 15. When setting 3-10, sometimes it will go to zero. I never want to see the IAC go to zero.
did what you said with dfco. as soon as i get close to 15 it drops to 0 . i've checked for vacuum leaks throttle cable adjustment . this is getting ridiculous sprayed carb cleaner no change in idle no leaks . disconnected my turbo up pipe to the intake man. only think i notice when i tap the throttle my fuel pressure jumps from 58 to 66