Running way lean help
I still say there is an exhaust leak causing the O2 sensors to see lean condition and the unit is trying to throw fuel at it. Creating a truly rich condition that loads the engine up and causes the engine to surge.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on May 11, 2019, 8:53 amI still say there is an exhaust leak causing the O2 sensors to see lean condition and the unit is trying to throw fuel at it. Creating a truly rich condition that loads the engine up and causes the engine to surge.
Sid a smoke test yesterday found the intake gaskets 3 and 7 were leaking(very small) replaced all gaskets. The v band connection at the headers to the t4 flange were also leaking. Fixed the issues . Still having bogging issues when blipping the throttle from a warm idle engine then stalls.
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Quote from rrobins on May 7, 2019, 11:36 pmQuote from TheStig86 on May 7, 2019, 8:48 pm
Quote from rrobins on May 7, 2019, 3:36 pmQuote from TheStig86 on May 7, 2019, 12:31 amQuote from Austin DeHaas on May 4, 2019, 4:11 pmWhat is your fuel pressure when it goes lean? How long does it go lean before the unit compensates? Your log does not show the lean condition....
With the new Walbro 450lph fuel pump everything stays at 58-62psi . My other issue is that iac keeps a fault code after replacing it , but the step are within spec 2-8 at idle.
Quote from rrobins on May 6, 2019, 10:38 pmJust heads up the log files sample rates are slow and do not catch some things. Also I would like to ask are you using just the handheld or are you using the procal software? Since your are running a power adder system I assume you have set your Kpa boost ranges, Cam AFR ranges for boost and your spark timing. What fuel are you running? How much boost you planning to run?
I was data logging with the handheld, if the procal is faster I'll check it out . I set the AFR to 11.5 WOT to be on the safe side. I haven't messed with the spark timing I'm ignorant on that. I figured the kit would figure it out for me. I'm using 91 oct . Any info would be great I'm learning . Current wastegate springs are just 10 pounds.
The best advise I can give you right now is not get into boost or put the smallest 5 lb or less. Fitechs boosted timing tables are to aggressive and will blow things up. There are to many variables here to give advise like forged bottom, new built,old motor with new Fitech. I personally if it was me and i had a new install or new build is to dive on the system for 200 or more miles let it learn running no boost and then start getting into the meat of timing tables,AFR,RPM,Kpa ranges. Even then you would want to start real conservative with timing and boost. I started at just with a 5 lb spring first. I don't want to give you the wrong advice Stig and hurt your motor.
Good info yes everything is new and forged from Manley . This is beginning to be a pain in the you know what. I just wanted to plug it in and go drive easy for 500-1000 miles. . This car is finished it's 1969 camaro twin turbo pro touring build. I don't have time or the money to take turbos off etc. Beginning to think this was a waste or time and money with their kit . On the engine dyno we used an aem kit fired right up no issues using all of fitech sensors etc . I don't know what to do now.
That's good to hear new all forged easy for 500 miles. You didn't waist your time at this stage of the setup knowing a little more on your setup there's really only a few things to left to set then let the Fitech system learn then you can tweak a little at a time. My build is similar to yours twin 76s turbo C10 all forged bottom LQ9 403 cid. Right now I run wastegates @ 5lb low boost controller is set to 10-12lbs high boost via a switch. Once you get your time in the seat I can provide some screen shots of my procal tuning I don't use the handheld. Not sure what wastegates your running but did they come with other lower spring sets that you can put in for now till you get some drive time in? Are you subscribed the this topic?
changed to 5psi springs as you suggested
Hi,
Newbie here.
Never been on a forum before.
Not sure if I am doing the right way.
I apologize if incorrect procedure.
I have installed 32002 on 1696 Firebird. Built 400, eldelbrock ported heads, Hydraulic roller cam 230 intake 236 exhaust Lobe separation 112. Lift with 1.65 rockers Intake 561 exhaust 573. 9.5:1 compression. Edelebrock Performer RPM intake.
Initially started with RTR MSD distributor. Had fuel dumping issues due to MSD redline display. Solved that.
Decided to use timing control and changed distributor to MSD pro-billet.
Locked out advance and finally gave up after many, many hours of trying to stop RPM noise. Entire engine looked like a pan of JIFFY-POP. Shielded wires with grounds, etc.
Ok so now I have intsalled MSD RTR 8528 after again having problems I have had RPM on hand held show 58,880 RPM and 360 rpm at random.
This has caused a fuel dump.
This may or not be a problem, however it has shown above numbers exactly a few times.
After all this I finally have engine running and decided to raise rpm to clean plugs after all the fuel dumps.
When held at constant 4000 rpm for about 1-2 minutes, I noticed my headers were glowing.
Am I running TOO lean, is this something that will correct itself.
Not sure what is going on and don't want to destroy my engine.
This is the second build as previous build was done incorrectly(problem with thrust bearing) after 6 hours of run time.
I am NOT able to drive car as it is waiting for paint and is NOT currently street legal due to no headlights, tail lights bumpers,etc.
trying to sort all I can before I have it painted.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
Quote from RAIV400 on May 17, 2019, 6:03 amHi,
Newbie here.
Never been on a forum before.
Not sure if I am doing the right way.
I apologize if incorrect procedure.
I have installed 32002 on 1696 Firebird. Built 400, eldelbrock ported heads, Hydraulic roller cam 230 intake 236 exhaust Lobe separation 112. Lift with 1.65 rockers Intake 561 exhaust 573. 9.5:1 compression. Edelebrock Performer RPM intake.
Initially started with RTR MSD distributor. Had fuel dumping issues due to MSD redline display. Solved that.
Decided to use timing control and changed distributor to MSD pro-billet.
Locked out advance and finally gave up after many, many hours of trying to stop RPM noise. Entire engine looked like a pan of JIFFY-POP. Shielded wires with grounds, etc.
Ok so now I have intsalled MSD RTR 8528 after again having problems I have had RPM on hand held show 58,880 RPM and 360 rpm at random.
This has caused a fuel dump.
This may or not be a problem, however it has shown above numbers exactly a few times.
After all this I finally have engine running and decided to raise rpm to clean plugs after all the fuel dumps.
When held at constant 4000 rpm for about 1-2 minutes, I noticed my headers were glowing.
Am I running TOO lean, is this something that will correct itself.
Not sure what is going on and don't want to destroy my engine.
This is the second build as previous build was done incorrectly(problem with thrust bearing) after 6 hours of run time.
I am NOT able to drive car as it is waiting for paint and is NOT currently street legal due to no headlights, tail lights bumpers,etc.
trying to sort all I can before I have it painted.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you
This post is fine. Just posted in the wrong place. It needs to be in "New to Fitech" section. This section is for LS engines. Unfortunately I can't move your post. I need you to copy your post and paste in a new Topic within the New to Fitech section.
Case Closed!!!!!!!!! Took it to Fitech had their tuner program it the car is perfect now 🙂
Would you be willing to share your cal file?? I’ve got the same problem and would really appreciate the help good sir.