Successful?
Quote from 85Silverado on March 24, 2019, 9:20 pmQuote from Austin DeHaas on March 24, 2019, 8:54 pm...If you have dual tanks, do replace both pickups and the switching valve. Also the 87 dash switch is a little different. I have done an 86 this way and it switches seamlessly. No more vapor issues....It sounds great, but pulling the tanks is a pain and not looking forward to that. LOL. I replaced my switching valve a few years ago, does it need to match the '87 dash switch? Any rewiring?
Any insight using the FCC recirculating? I've seen where some guys are removing the vent filter and float, then connecting the vent line to the tank return line.
The 87 valve has the electrical to switch the pumps. I have done it with relays, but don't recommend. Guys have been successful with the FCC mod. Personally never used a FCC. I know the first generation had a lot of issues.
Have just installed the 30002 TB EFI and the 40003 FCC - purchased as a package in July of 2016.
Reading about the issues with the FCC has me 2nd guessing going on an extended road trip in a couple of months. Going to be on some very lonely roads far from home and don't need to be stranded miles from nowhere without cellphone coverage.
*** Update ***
Have scrapped the trip plans as the FCC is overheating and occasionally shutting down (fuel pressure = 0). Have found and followed the instructions for dialing back the pump speed but that hasn't seemed to help. Budget constraints have me locked into this unit for the foreseeable future. What else can I do to cool this puppy down?
Depends on where your heat is coming from. Is it engine bay heat causing issue or fuel heat from constant pumping in a small closed loop? Or both? Probably both.
I am not a fan of FCC or the FCC2. In tank pumps are the only way to go for reliability and longevity. But, we must stick to your constraints.
You could try wrapping it in header wrap. Some have tried using a trans cooler as a fuel cooler.
Austin - thanks for the reply.
Currently the FCC is located in the front right corner of the engine bay mounted on the radiator support. If engine bay heat was the culprit everything in there would be hot to the touch, which is not the case. The low pressure fuel line from the mechanical fuel pump to the FCC is cool to the touch even though I used part of the original fuel line (from the pump to the Q-Jet) and plumbed from there to the FCC. The high pressure fuel line from the FCC to the TB was warm to the touch but not hot.
I have thought about somehow insulating the FCC from the rest of the engine bay and perhaps adding an air duct from behind or below the grill to get some cooler air at the unit but that would only help when the car is moving. Maybe adding a small fan and using one of the fan circuits to control it would be an option.
There may be room to mount the FCC between the grill and the radiator support which would get it outside of the engine bay. That would mean redoing fuel lines as they would need to be longer. But again that would only help when the car is moving.
I've sent in a support question to the FI-Tech kids for suggestions so will share what they have to say when a response comes in.
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After a week of waiting for a reply to my technical support request e-mail I called the support number today. The tech rep I spoke with (he didn't give his name) suggested to open up the FCC, remove the float and use the vent port as a return feed to the tank. He also said to get a vented fuel cap and reset the PWM setting to 74. (btw - no instruction was offered on how to open up the FCC)
Has anyone done this? If so, did it solve the pump overheating issue?
I'm not so certain about using the tank vent line as a fuel return line. If anything I'd route a line over to the mechanical fuel pump and tee into that return line to the tank. If I did that I would need to plumb the fuel tank vent line to a vacuum port on either the manifold or the TB, correct?
Thoughts? Other suggestions?
Thanks in advance.