Quote from ray230 on April 9, 2019, 8:55 pm

Update: Added battery to chassis ground. So now I have battery grounded 4 ways. Engine, chassis, body, Fitech base.

A little info on the power to the white wire. Mopars have two keyed ignition wires. One carries 12v on crank. I have that one feeding the coil. The other drops to 8-9v on crank, so I have that one signaling a relay fed 12v directly from the battery and that feeding the white wire. That should work right? After all that I do not know what else I could do to increase the voltage? Especially since I tried the white wire direct to the battery and still had the same issue.

I did have one other thought. When I ran the carb, I had the rev limiter set on the RTR. I do not remember if I cleared it when I installed the Fitech. Would that cause this start issue?

After that I am drawing a blank. Fitech Tech support is out of ideas too and are suggesting I return the unit for them to test. The bad part of that is I'm sitting for however long that takes.

Quote from Deleted user on April 9, 2019, 10:12 pm

Fitech is reasonably fast on testing, fixing and returning systems.

Your previous post said you were 10 plus volts during crank.  Not only will the system shut off if white wire is under 11v, it will also shut off if the constant falls below 11v.

 

Quote from ray230 on April 10, 2019, 7:48 am

but I wouldn’t have had the issue when I connected the white wire to the battery correct?

What else could I do to get a constant voltage?

thank you

Quote from Deleted user on April 10, 2019, 10:37 am

Quote from ray230 on April 10, 2019, 7:48 am

but I wouldn’t have had the issue when I connected the white wire to the battery correct?

What else could I do to get a constant voltage?

thank you

If your battery is pulling down below 11v when cranking, YES you would still have a problem.

Quote from ray230 on April 10, 2019, 1:56 pm

2 year old Optima red top. Showing fully charged. If it were drawing down on crank, it would show below after crank too wouldn’t it?

Quote from ray230 on April 11, 2019, 8:11 pm

Update:

I received the RMA form today, but before I disassembled and sent back I wanted to try one more thing. I reinstalled the V8 file from #10 again and went through the install setup again. (Remember I did this before to clear the RPM fault and the learning it had done while the blue wire was connected to the coil). This time it started and ran to temp. Fans came on and it continued to run.

After about 15 min. idling I shut off for about 10 minutes and restarted, ran again for 10 minutes and repeated one more time. It is raining and I didn't trust it to try and drive yet. But it is starting and running.

Is it possible that there was a glitch when the file reloaded the first time and now it will be ok? Or is there a likely issue with the ECU and I need to continue the RMA process?

Quote from Deleted user on April 12, 2019, 8:06 am

Most likely a programming glitch.  Do some testing to make sure.

Quote from ray230 on April 12, 2019, 1:15 pm

For sure. It’s going to take a while for me to trust it. Any advice on how to test besides just running and time?

thanks