Quote from mark_j@windowslive.com on December 11, 2018, 11:46 pm

here is the first datalog again in case you need it.

 

The old ling wont work.

Quote from mark_j@windowslive.com on December 11, 2018, 11:46 pm

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xitwslak97tirbb/Basic%20Sensors1.csv?dl=0

Quote from Deleted user on December 12, 2018, 1:17 am

Need to see those IAC steps down between 15-20.  Your Cam setting should be "1", if not already.  I would think your idle should be much more stable.

Quote from ray230 on April 4, 2019, 7:20 pm

Quote from Austin DeHaas on November 27, 2018, 8:49 am

Quote from mark_j@windowslive.com on November 26, 2018, 10:24 pm

Thanks, I now have another project for the weekend.

 

Ill let you know how I get on.

Try hooking the key wire (white) directly to the battery.  Make sure your battery is fully charged.

The white wire to the battery is temporary to see if the problem goes away, correct? Thanks

Quote from Deleted user on April 4, 2019, 8:55 pm

Quote from ray230 on April 4, 2019, 7:20 pm

Quote from Austin DeHaas on November 27, 2018, 8:49 am

Quote from mark_j@windowslive.com on November 26, 2018, 10:24 pm

Thanks, I now have another project for the weekend.

 

Ill let you know how I get on.

Try hooking the key wire (white) directly to the battery.  Make sure your battery is fully charged.

The white wire to the battery is temporary to see if the problem goes away, correct? Thanks

Correct!

Quote from ray230 on April 4, 2019, 9:05 pm

If you check my posts I have a similar issue where the car died idling and no restart. How would it run fine and suddenly develop a voltage problem?

thanks

Quote from ray230 on April 7, 2019, 4:24 pm

Key on pump runs and comes to pressure. Injectors fire the starting shot of fuel. Car cranks and fires once, then nothing. No fuel.

Here is an update on the things I've checked:

Red wire 10+ volts during cranking = yes

White wire 10+ volts during cranking = yes

Tried temporarily connecting the white wire to the battery = same result.

Engine ground less that .5 ohms = yes

See RPMs on handheld = yes, reads 140-175 during cranking.

Quote from Deleted user on April 7, 2019, 4:50 pm

Quote from ray230 on April 7, 2019, 4:24 pm

Key on pump runs and comes to pressure. Injectors fire the starting shot of fuel. Car cranks and fires once, then nothing. No fuel.

Here is an update on the things I've checked:

Red wire 10+ volts during cranking = yes

White wire 10+ volts during cranking = yes

Tried temporarily connecting the white wire to the battery = same result.

Engine ground less that .5 ohms = yes

See RPMs on handheld = yes, reads 140-175 during cranking.

Must be over 11 volts, preferably never under 12.  If battery is good, I would work on your grounds.  2ga battery to block, 10ga battery to frame, 10ga battery to body.  Never has failed me.

Quote from ray230 on April 7, 2019, 5:40 pm

I’ve got all the grounds but battery to chassis. I’ll try that too. Cranking volts bounced in 10s and 11s

Odd thing is it run 3-4 times up to temperature then I had the rpm noise code and issues, then this after I fixed that and reset everything.