timing controlled distributor install question.
Can someone please help me getting my timing set? I set the crank to 10 degrees advanced and set the distributor in pointing toward cyl #1. I then aligned the pickup and locked town the distributor.
From there I phased the rotor so it points to the number 1 distributor terminal.
I set 10 degrees on the handheld and it sounds like it wants to fire but just doesn't. I know TDC is correct. I verified spark, it just feels like timing. Between rotating the distributor, phasing the rotor, and setting the handheld im lost.
I contacted fitech and they said 10 degrees on the crank, 10 on the distributor and 10 on the rotor...even more confusion.
This is a new - never ran sbc.
I watched various YouTube videos on this and everyone seems to set up base timing different.
This shouldn't be this difficult.
Thanks for any help!
Are you positive that you are TDC on compression stroke?
Yes, that's why I said I'm sure it's on TDC in my first post.
Sorry it didn't start at first try. Once you make sure the distributor was not installed 180 degrees out...reference Austin's question...could you please provide more details?
- Could you please confirm if you're using FiTech to control your timing?
- If yes, did you select VRCOIL in the "Engine Setup" screen?
Yes, again, the distributor is installed at #1 cyl TDC (10 degrees advanced). The rotor is pointing to number 1 cylinder on its compression stroke.
The handheld is set to VRCOIL so, yes, Fitech is controlling the timing.
Handheld is also set to 10 degrees base timing.
The magnet is aligned to the pickup relucter at TDC and the rotor is phased so it's under the #1 distributor cap contact.
With any new engine the critical thing is getting them quickly, not looking for the perfect setup/tune...just want it to start.
This comment in your initial post is confusing: "From there I phased the rotor so it points to the number 1 distributor terminal." If you're using FiTech to control timing, you need an adjustable rotor cap and you phase it by rotating just the top part of the cap a number of degrees the same direction the rotor spins (clockwise for your sbc). BUT, for initial starting, you can leave it at the mid-point, or maybe just a few degrees advanced. I would not try to make things too perfect, you'll adjust everything once the engine is running. I would:
- Rotate engine so it's 10* BTDC (I always remove the valve cover and make sure the intake valve on the #1 cylinder is closing as the timing mark is approaching TDC. (I've made the 180* out mistake before.)
- Install distributor so rotor is pointing to middle of #1 post.
- Do not worry about aligning reluctor wheel...your final timing adjustments with timing light will correct.
- Leave adjustable rotor at zero.
- Make sure you've selected VRCOIL in Engine Setup screen.
- Make sure you input 10* for distr base timing AND for timing at idle
- HUGE one...make sure you have a fully charged battery and that the FiTech system is seeing no less than around 11 volts WHILE cranking...check at handheld. If not, it will not start.
- After the engine has been broken in, go through the steps of matching timing on handheld to timing at crank with a timing light and engine at about 2000 RPMs. You should also phase the rotor now using the hole in cap method, or just advance the adjustable part of the rotor clockwise (for sbc) to the second long line, or just short of it...that's 10* at the rotor, 20* at the crank.
Ask away if the above is confusing.
Good luck!
sorry for repeat questions...I was typing while you were answering
The above discussions have focused on getting a good spark...how about these:
- Have you checked fuel pressure with a gage? If pump is non-PWM, set all to 100?
- Have you checked to make sure there is fuel spraying as part of Prime Shot?
- If you have tried to start multiple times, your engine may flooded if you left the prime shot at the default setting. I would open throttle full and crank engine over multiple rotations to hopefully dry out the plugs.
- I would set prime shot to zero and up the cranking to maybe 50. You could use a can of starting spray just to make sure the engine will fire. Won't keep it running if there are other issues, but will show if there is spark.
You know this is a real good point! I figured it would be a spark issue as it seems like these usually flow fuel fibe out of the box.
I do have a pressure gauge on it. I'll look at it while cranking to insure 58 psi.
I also have a Walbro GSL392 pump and from what I can see it's not PWM. so I'll have to figure out how to change that as well.
Thanks all for the help this far guys!!