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tuning fitech for better gas mileage

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are you havent comment ??!!

i'm from iran srry if my english isnt good

Your last question is yours to answer.

about spark timing ? na na i have another question

disconnected 2 injectors

about this mode are you have opinion ?

 

i'm from iran srry if my english isnt good
Quote from henry.ss on February 24, 2019, 3:07 am

about spark timing ? na na i have another question

disconnected 2 injectors

about this mode are you have opinion ?

 

I would not recommend unplugging injectors....

I know we are having a bit of a language barrier.  We will get through this.  Any amount of tuning on a Fitech should always start with the idle tune.  With the correct idle tune the Fitech can make better calculations and you will learn a baseline for AFR.  If your engine runs smoother with injectors unplugged, then some changes need to be made.

I can not tell you what tune is right for your engine.  I can only show you the tools that are available to you.  Your job is to show me some data so we can step by step increase the efficiency of your engine.

If you follow some steps with me, we will clean things up and you will have the understanding to move forward with your tuning on your own.

As for ignition timing, I would recommend the same timing that it was using for the carb.  That shouldn't need to change.

I need this from you.  A 30 second idle datalog at operating temperature.  I need the actual spreadsheet file, not pictures.  Simply post a Dropbox link here.  Also post a picture of your spark plugs, so we can all get a read on the tune.

henry.ss has reacted to this post.
henry.ss

ok

here you are

https://www.dropbox.com/s/sya4d6w9wo66qs4/Basic%20Sensors%20METRIC8.csv?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/bqf6299hkbotwlg/cold%20Basic%20Sensors%20METRIC7.csv?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xmfu8gyo9wqrkqu/Basic%20Sensors%20METRIC6.csv?dl=0

 

i uploaded 3 log files 2 in warm mode and one in cold starting And running

 

now ball in your land

 

tnx

i'm from iran srry if my english isnt good

From the standpoint of your Fitech system, things are looking like they are working as they should.  Your system is fine.  Now you need to learn how to tune the system to your engine combination.

tnx

now what do i do ?

i'm from iran srry if my english isnt good

Get familiar with all the tools available by studying the handheld definitions in the Members Section.  I cannot tell you how to tune your engine only provide the information on the capabilities of the system.  Every engine combination is different and only you can be the person to fine tune.

If you are unclear on how to tune, there is plenty of online information and books that can help.  Once you know the science of tuning, it will be more clear how to use the tools of the Fitech.

Best advice I can give is do one thing at a time.....

i found real important info about standstill problem !

 

Intake manifolds are going to get wet with fuel while running. This wetness changes with temperature, engine vacuum, and air flow speeds. This wetness also must be supplied in addition to the fuel that is intended to reach the cylinders. This wet film of fuel on the surface is much thicker at cold engine (fuel doesn’t evaporate well when cold), and also varies greatly with vacuum (bigger at high loads, smaller at low loads). The software has a strategy to supply that fuel and compensate for the changing size of the film. However, different manifolds have different characteristics, so some adjustments may be necessary to give the proper fuel during a “transient” event (transient is a term used to describe moving the throttle and changing the load). The fuel added during a transient has to be added in a special way to cause the wetness to build correctly over several injections. It starts out large, and decays to 0. The decay adjustments shape that curve. A larger decay value causes the accel “pump” amount to be ended sooner, and a smaller decay value allows the fuel to extend a little longer. It’s a fine art of calibration to get this perfect, requiring a super-fast reading of a lambda sensor. It’s recommended to only adjust these values when you notice it’s a problem. It also shouldn’t be adjusted much until the fuel learning has had plenty of time to adapt to the engine. The Accel fuel calculation uses 2 different signals that work mostly independently determine how much fuel to add/subtract. The MAP is directly used for “Accel Pump” fuel. The Alpha-N MAP is used for the “Fast Accel” fuel. Alpha-N uses the TPS and RPM to calculate a secondary “MAP” signal in case of the MAP fault. That value is also used to calculate the “Fast Accel” fuel, because it responds slightly faster than the real MAP signal.

 

Accel Pump 20F = Adjusts the fuel film compensation when very cold. 0 means it uses the default calibration directly.

Accel Pump 65F = Adjusts the fuel film compensation when cold. 0 means it uses the default calibration directly.

Accel Pump 170F = Adjusts the fuel film compensation when warm. 0 means it uses the default calibration directly. The default calibration already has a background table that is set up to work pretty good “out of the box” but it may be too lean or too rich during quick tip-ins for certain engines.

 

Accel Decay 20F = A larger decay will shorten the amount of time that the injectors are adding fuel during a transient. A smaller decay will extend the time. 0 will use the default values that are in the default calibration.

Accel Decay 65F = Same, but for 65F.

Accel Decay 170F = Same, but for warm engine. Fast Accel 20F = Adjusts the fuel film compensation when very cold. 0 means it uses the default calibration directly.

Fast Accel 65F = Adjusts the fuel film compensation when cold. 0 means it uses the default calibration directly.

Fast Accel 170F = Adjusts the fuel film compensation when warm. 0 means it uses the default calibration directly. Fast Decay 20F = A larger decay will shorten the amount of time that the injectors are adding fuel during a transient. A smaller decay will extend the time. 0 will use the default values that are in the default calibration.

Fast Decay 65F = Same, but for 65F.

Fast Decay 170F = Same, but for warm engine.

dTPS Acc Gain = In order to “help” the acceleration fuel be large enough to handle a sudden throttle snap open, the speed of throttle opening is used as a bit of a helper to make it bigger as the speed of the throttle is opened faster. A larger number here will make it more sensitive to throttle opening speed.

dTPS Acc Max = The dTPS fuel gain multiplier is limited to this amount. 100 means that no help is given by this function. 199 means that the Fast Accel fuel is nearly doubled if the throttle is moved quickly enough.

Tipout -20F = “Tipout” is the term used to describe when the throttle is closing. The MAP drops rapidly, which means vacuum increases rapidly, and the fuel suddenly vaporizes off of the wall, and the injected fuel quantity is less. The wall film of fuel will decrease greatly, and thus if the injection rate is kept the same, the engine will be very rich. The software compensates this using a default calibration for the wall film, but the adjustments provided here can allow more precise adjustment for the varying engine configurations.

Tipout 0F = Same.

Tipout 40F = Same.

Tipout 70F = Same.

Tipout 120F = Same.

Tipout 150F = Same.

Tipout 185F = Same.

Tipout 215F = Same.

i'm from iran srry if my english isnt good
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