Won't start after warmed and parked
Quote from JackhammeredC10 on January 17, 2020, 9:56 pmI maxed out prime shot and all cranking fuel and it still does it. Iac is at 7 warm at idle, increased afterstart fuel, cam setting at 3, timing is 12 degrees advance at idle. When it happens I cycle the key 5 or 6 times before starting when warm and eventually I get it started. Takes 3 to 5 times to get it to fire. Still carry a can of brake cleaner with me.
I maxed out prime shot and all cranking fuel and it still does it. Iac is at 7 warm at idle, increased afterstart fuel, cam setting at 3, timing is 12 degrees advance at idle. When it happens I cycle the key 5 or 6 times before starting when warm and eventually I get it started. Takes 3 to 5 times to get it to fire. Still carry a can of brake cleaner with me.
Quote from Austin DeHaas on January 17, 2020, 11:12 pmQuote from JackhammeredC10 on January 17, 2020, 9:56 pmI maxed out prime shot and all cranking fuel and it still does it. Iac is at 7 warm at idle, increased afterstart fuel, cam setting at 3, timing is 12 degrees advance at idle. When it happens I cycle the key 5 or 6 times before starting when warm and eventually I get it started. Takes 3 to 5 times to get it to fire. Still carry a can of brake cleaner with me.
I just looked back and saw that you have a return style regulator/filter. This means your fuel is deaheaded from your filter all the way to the Throttle Body. I like to have fuel flowing through and back to the tank. Keeps fuel cooler. LS engines do this but their fuel rails are isolated from the rest of the system, therefore do not pick up as much heat.
As many say, at 58psi, it is impossible to vapor lock. This is probably true, but hot fuel sprayed into the barrel onto a hot throttle blade could very well vaporize the fuel which would cause a no start situation.
Quote from JackhammeredC10 on January 17, 2020, 9:56 pmI maxed out prime shot and all cranking fuel and it still does it. Iac is at 7 warm at idle, increased afterstart fuel, cam setting at 3, timing is 12 degrees advance at idle. When it happens I cycle the key 5 or 6 times before starting when warm and eventually I get it started. Takes 3 to 5 times to get it to fire. Still carry a can of brake cleaner with me.
I just looked back and saw that you have a return style regulator/filter. This means your fuel is deaheaded from your filter all the way to the Throttle Body. I like to have fuel flowing through and back to the tank. Keeps fuel cooler. LS engines do this but their fuel rails are isolated from the rest of the system, therefore do not pick up as much heat.
As many say, at 58psi, it is impossible to vapor lock. This is probably true, but hot fuel sprayed into the barrel onto a hot throttle blade could very well vaporize the fuel which would cause a no start situation.
Quote from taylorteamracing on January 17, 2020, 11:35 pmmine has the hyper fuel with a return back to the cell, and before I fixed my overheat I would get up to 250 and no vaper lock, have you looked in the throttle body bore and when you cycle the key is your injectors actually firing and dispersing the 3 to 5 seconds of fuel, I believe my issue is my blower I have such a long way to go to get fuel to the cylinders if I crack the throttle just a hair it lights off at any temperature and I have my iac at 30 with a target rpm of 950 its just where it likes to run
mine has the hyper fuel with a return back to the cell, and before I fixed my overheat I would get up to 250 and no vaper lock, have you looked in the throttle body bore and when you cycle the key is your injectors actually firing and dispersing the 3 to 5 seconds of fuel, I believe my issue is my blower I have such a long way to go to get fuel to the cylinders if I crack the throttle just a hair it lights off at any temperature and I have my iac at 30 with a target rpm of 950 its just where it likes to run
Quote from taylorteamracing on January 17, 2020, 11:50 pmif it starts after 5 key cycles that would suggest to me ,,
not enough fuel
serious air leak , intake, intake to throttle body spacer, booster check valve, vac lines on throttle body correct,
have you tried a carburetor see if prob goes away
not enough advance
plugs gapped to far
valves to tight
what color are the plugs it really sounds like a way bad lean condition and it needs the extra fuel to compensate your o2 will not show this ,, what is the exhaust port temps on the header pipe 1 inch from the head I think it should be around 400 degrees
if it starts after 5 key cycles that would suggest to me ,,
not enough fuel
serious air leak , intake, intake to throttle body spacer, booster check valve, vac lines on throttle body correct,
have you tried a carburetor see if prob goes away
not enough advance
plugs gapped to far
valves to tight
what color are the plugs it really sounds like a way bad lean condition and it needs the extra fuel to compensate your o2 will not show this ,, what is the exhaust port temps on the header pipe 1 inch from the head I think it should be around 400 degrees