Rich on low rpm cruise
bdhulderman, The motor is fresh with only about 1.5 hours on it since first start. I hold it at 2k rpm till warmup so it gets good oil slinging, then let it drop to idle to get the log. This also makes it warm up pretty fast. Last week it was cold here. When I went for a cruise to log coolant temp was hovering at 170F, so I blocked off a 3rd of the radiator with cardboard to get to 180F. I Also raised the fan on to 190 and turn off at 185. I will be hooking in my fan #2 to auto on/off, but for now its just a toggle. I'm not sure what thermostat is in it now (quality/temp) but I ordered a hi flow 180F from Summit. A local Ford tuner says this is what he recommends for SBFs. I really appreciate all the comments on this sight, made a small donation. Definitely learning a whole lot more here than from my builder or FiTech. Thanks
Looks like you are almost there. Yeah, on my SBC with the .8 lift I have and 310 deg duration, it runs at only 5 in Hg, so I had to set my AFR to 16.4 to keep my plugs from fouling out. The plugs look really nice now finally. I found I can't run resistor plugs, or it runs too rich even at 16.4 setting, so I put the non-resistor plugs back in and it ran a lot better. Good luck! 😀
Mkm492 glad to hear you are getting sorted out. I met with Fitech guys at SEMA this week and told them about the O2 sensor install. They were just as pissed as I was. I run into "installer" issues everyday and unfortunately good paying customers get screwed.
Stories like yours are exactly the reason this site was started. Fitech understandably can't keep up with phone tech support and there is too much "static" on Facebook.
Keep up with the updates and thanks again for the donation.
Tune your idle AFR to the plugs, not the O2 reading. Once you are happy with idle then you have a baseline reading to go off of. Build your tune around that. Because the O2 sensor is custom installed it will not be calibrated to your specific combination. The O2 data then becomes a tool not a calibrated reading. Look at it this way. With Carb tuning we read plugs. It is still necessary to do that with aftermarket EFI, but only initially. After that we can monitor through the unit.
Ok, my plan is to raise my idle AFR target in increments of .5 and also thinking of trying non resistor plugs to get my plugs reading good. Could non resistor plugs mess with the ecu? Do I just warm up the car, let it idle for 10-15 minutes, then check the plugs? Thanks a lot.
On my engine I have spiral core wires which keep away interference, and I haven't had any issues with interference as far as I know, so I think I'm ok. Yeah, I let it run for about 15 min and check the plugs. I guess you can try your resistor plugs first to see what happens on the adjustment in AFR, but personally, I noticed as soon as a put in my non-resistor plugs, the rpm went way up, and I had to turn out the idle screw about a full turn to get it idling nicely with the correct IAC. But it's running really good now, much better than it did with resistor plugs.
Put in new plugs and set idle AFR target to 14.2 (up from 13.5.) Idled for 15 minutes after warmup. Pulled the plugs and they looked exactly like out of the box. Went for a ride for 20 minutes, mostly cruising at 2200-2400 rpm with a few pumps to 3200 rpm. Pulled plugs and they were black. Still seeing AFRs going into the 12's in 2200-2400 under light load (slight hills) and during decel from that rpm range. How do I adjust this? Is it target AFRs, Accel/Decel, tip in? I think the Idle is ok now, just need to fix the fuel dumping in under light load between 2200-2400 rpm.
Datalog.
When I click on the link it says: The folder ‘/DashBoard25.csv’ doesn’t exist.
Quote from bdhulderman on November 3, 2018, 8:09 amWhen I click on the link it says: The folder ‘/DashBoard25.csv’ doesn’t exist.
Same issue here.